Cuisine - - RESTAURANTS -

Oikos 15/20 382 Broad­way, Mi­ra­mar 022 4800 170, oikos.co.nz Din­ner Tues-Sat Shar­ing dishes $12-$18

SEV­ERAL OF THE MOST mem­o­rable (and de­li­cious) meals of my life to date have in­volved Greek food. Some of them took place a decade ago, on a tiny Greek is­land where I was look­ing af­ter dogs for a tyran­ni­cal English woman. Oth­ers were at a fam­ily-run res­tau­rant in Lon­don, where the ma­tri­arch counted the cash af­ter ser­vice and an an­cient band of broth­ers did the serv­ing. But when news broke that a new Greek res­tau­rant was open­ing in Welling­ton, my heart sank. The last Greek joint to grace the city was not a glow­ing ex­am­ple of Hel­lenic cui­sine and I feared the new kid on the block would be more of the same.

Three things gave me hope be­fore I made it through the doors of Oikos, which is tucked into a small strip of sub­ur­ban shops in Strath­more (that’s near the air­port, for vis­i­tors from out of town). Firstly, it’s part-owned by the pro­pri­etors of The Greek Food Truck, pur­vey­ors of de­li­cious sou­vlaki that are the clos­est thing I’ve found to the per­fect pork gyros I loved so much in Greece. Se­condly, it soon tran­spired that it was near im­pos­si­ble to get a ta­ble. And thirdly, chef-owner Theo

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