What to watch, read and cook from now
REVIEWS SWEET YOTAM OTTOLENGHI & HELEN GOH, EBURY PRESS, H/B, $65 YOTAM OTTOLENGHI’S
wondrous ways with vegetables are perhaps what he’s best-known for, but anyone who’s wandered past the meringue-laden windows of his eponymous London delis will know this Israeli chef is no chump when it comes to sweet treats either. In this book, Ottolenghi is joined by Helen Goh, his Melbourne-raised pastry chef collaborator, on a tome packed with biscuits, cakes, desserts and confectionery. In a time when sugar is seen by many as the enemy, a book of traditional sweets is oddly refreshing, and the preface sets out the authors’ manifesto: there’s nothing wrong with treats, as long as we know what they are and enjoy them as such. As for the 110 globally influenced recipes (everything from rugelach and s’mores to Persian love cakes and pineapple tartlets with pandan and star anise), each and every one of them looks straight-up delicious, not to mention achievable. ALICE NEVILLE brandy snaps: Al Brown has returned. The chef continues to whip up classics with a twist using New Zealand’s raft of fine ingredients in his latest book. There’s an unsurprisingly large section dedicated to oceanic treats, and some more novel additions like muttonbird and kūmara cakes and pāua pies, meaning this book will be simultaneously recognisable and surprising to the average Kiwi. Among the tuatua fritters, offal and salads, Brown proffers his literary hand, giving the reader an insight into the mind behind Auckland institutions Depot and Best Ugly Bagels, as well as his values. It’s a snapshot of New Zealand’s recent food history, with Brown’s contemporary touch. Given there are imperial measurements for each recipe, it’s likely this book is destined for overseas, and if it’s designed to act for New Zealand’s food in a Lonely Planet fashion, the book achieves its goal in fine fashion.
to Rata’s famous Southland cheese roll, plus there’s a bonus cocktail in the mix too – The Grove’s intriguing artichoke negroni. New Zealand Restaurant
Cookbook is essentially a road map for food-loving tourists and Kiwis alike, as well as a handy guide for when you want to show off at dinner parties. TH THE VEGETABLE CAROLINE GRIFFITHS & VICKI VALSAMIS, SMITH STREET BOOKS, H/B, $60 NOT EVEN THE
proudest carnivore could pick this book up and flick through the pages of seasonal produce without salivating. The authors, Australian food writers Caroline Griffiths and Vicki Valsamis, champion the ingredients too often left playing second fiddle to meat in recipes that are both enticing and approachable. The recipes, each labelled with their seasonality, will test readers’ perceived bounds in terms of combinations, and excite with dishes such as pan-tossed turnips and nashi with stilton, or roast sweet potato with miso and ginger caramel. As barbecue season looms, this book provides tasty al fresco fodder too: barbecued corn with chipotle mayo and queso or grilled leeks with agrodolce are just a couple of recipes to sub in for sausages or steak. This book puts vegetables in the centre of the plate and lets them speak for themselves, proving that they can more than hold their own. THOMAS HEATON NEW ZEALAND RESTAURANT COOKBOOK DELANEY MES, PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE, P/B $50 KIWI FOOD WRITER
Delaney Mes takes the guess work and fuss out of trying to emulate the country’s best dishes in this book, for which she has gathered recipes from our top chefs and restaurants – the likes of Giulio Sturla and Sid Sahrawat, Fleurs Place and Bistronomy – and brought them into the home. Mes has deftly chosen some great spots around the country that will provide a challenging chance to recreate some of your favourite dine-out dishes, from Social Kitchen’s flaming haloumi TH AT MY TABLE EAT UP NEW ZEALAND NIGELLA LAWSON, PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE, H/B, $60 AL BROWN, ALLEN & UNWIN, H/B, $65 NIGE’S LATEST Sponge drops, cinnamon oysters, chocolate eclairs and macadamia nut book is unashamedly sans theme and without much in the