Wine match

Element - - Food - By Yvonne Lorkin

So much more than a “love and mar­riage, horse and car­riage” sce­nario; the com­bi­na­tion of baked smoked salmon and chardon­nay is one of un­de­ni­able bril­liance.

How­ever be­cause baked smoked salmon has such a uniquely strong, rich flavour, you’ll need to choose a wine with some se­ri­ous weight, juici­ness and length in or­der to re­ally do this joint ven­ture jus­tice. Hence I’m rec­om­mend­ing the For­rest Es­tate Marl­bor­ough Chardon­nay 2008 ($20). The tangy stone­fruit char­ac­ters com­bined with suc­cu­lent cit­rus, creamy nougat notes and a gor­geous, tex­tu­ral fin­ish makes this a stand­out wine. It’s fan­tas­tic to see a wine with a bit of age still avail­able at such an amaz­ing price and it re­ally is only just hit­ting its straps. As one of Marl­bor­ough’s orig­i­nal wine pioneers, Dr John For­rest’s fo­cus has al­ways been to leave his land to the next gen­er­a­tion in far bet­ter con­di­tion to what he him­self in­her­ited; there­fore sus­tain­abil­ity, min­i­mal in­ter­ven­tion and a ‘hands-off, let-the-fruit-speak-for-it­self’ ap­proach is very much the way out in his vine­yards and in his win­ery. And while Dr For­rest may be bet­ter known for be­ing a ram­pant ries­ling re­vival­ist, this salmon-friendly wine shows his work with Chardon­nay def­i­nitely de­serves our at­ten­tion. www.for­

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