COMPLEXION PERFECTION

Achiev­ing a flaw­less complexion has never been so en­tic­ing, with pretty pas­tel tones made to per­fect. To help you nav­i­gate the con­fus­ing colour wheel, Lucy Slight asks the ex­perts about the pro­to­cols of colour cor­rect­ing

Fashion Quarterly - - Inside -

Your es­sen­tial guide to colour cor­rect­ing

Candy-coloured cor­rec­tors are com­ing in hot, not only with beauty vlog­gers and In­sta­gram makeup mae­stros, but in the main­stream, too. When, in the space of two weeks, no fewer than 10 colour cor­rect­ing pal­ettes, primers and creams made their way across my desk, I knew it was a topic that needed addressing. Pretty as a pic­ture and per­fectly ca­pa­ble of con­ceal­ing any con­cern, th­ese prod­ucts do so much more than spruce up your makeup bag.

Colour cor­rect­ing, for the unini­ti­ated, is the tech­nique of us­ing prod­ucts that help to cam­ou­flage dis­coloura­tion – think un­der-eye cir­cles, red­ness, pig­men­ta­tion and bruis­ing. While that may sound sim­ple, it’s not some­thing you want to dive into with­out ex­per­i­men­ta­tion; it pays to seek ad­vice to en­sure you achieve a flaw­less fin­ish. Bobbi Brown pro artist for the UK and Ire­land, Amy Con­way, sees the ap­peal in util­is­ing the colour wheel (see right) be­cause each colour has a di­rect route to the skin is­sue it will coun­ter­act. “Yel­low is a bril­liant way of bright­en­ing and neu­tral­is­ing red­ness, giv­ing a soft fin­ish with­out block­ing out all of the skin,” says Amy, who prefers to use yel­low­based prod­ucts than green. “The thing is with green, it can look quite heavy and over­done. We want to keep all of that glow and the skin’s tex­ture com­ing through, but we don’t want to see makeup.”

Amy says if she has pink, peach and yel­low cor­rect­ing prod­ucts in her kit, she can do any­thing for any­one. “I find that ev­ery woman needs a lit­tle bit of pink in her makeup bag, no mat­ter how much it scares her – it’s a bril­liant way to brighten any­thing,” she says. “CC creams are very pop­u­lar for hav­ing a pink tone, as they nat­u­rally brighten the skin with­out giv­ing any sal­low­ness. Peach helps to take out brown tones and pig­men­ta­tion.

If you want to cover red­ness or pig­men­ta­tion us­ing brighter colours in the wheel (the greens and pur­ples), ap­ply over mois­turised skin in day­light – not ar­ti­fi­cial light – to make sure the prod­uct is blended seam­lessly into the area you’re cor­rect­ing. Foun­da­tion ap­plied over the top will help to fur­ther even out your skin tone. Start by con­cen­trat­ing on small ar­eas of the face, such as break­outs and un­der-eye cir­cles. A dab of green con­cealer ap­plied to an an­gry blem­ish, worked back to your skin tone with a neu­tral con­cealer and pow­der, re­ally can work mir­a­cles.

Celebrity makeup artist and mem­ber of Sim­ple’s Ad­vi­sory Board, Craig Bea­gle­hole, says us­ing the right foun­da­tion for your skin’s un­der­tones is a sim­pler way to colour cor­rect. Look for foun­da­tions that are ei­ther pink or yel­low-based, de­pend­ing on your skin’s nat­u­ral tone. “MAC Face and Body is a sheer foun­da­tion that I love. The C shades are more yel­low-based and the N shades are pink-based, so it’s easy to blend with your nat­u­ral hue,” he says. “I think for me, the colour cor­rect­ing busi­ness was big when foun­da­tions weren’t as ad­vanced, but foun­da­tions do the job for you now – it’s just not al­ways easy to find the right one.” Craig rec­om­mends go­ing to a makeup counter and ask­ing for a sam­ple pot to take home and try for your­self. “See how it feels,” he says. “You’ll know quickly if it’s the wrong shade.”

Like­wise, Kay Roby from Os­mo­sis Sk­in­care be­lieves min­eral makeup can cor­rect many skin is­sues. “The highly

Amy says if she has pink, peach and yel­low cor­rect­ing prod­ucts in her kit, she can do any­thing

for any­one

pig­mented min­er­als of­fer the coverage needed, which is re­ally what will do the job,” she says, adding that it can take a lot of prac­tice to be­come adept at us­ing coloured prod­ucts on the skin. “Some­times, those prod­ucts can seep through foun­da­tion and you can see the green, yel­low or or­ange hues, which is not very flat­ter­ing.”

1. L’Oréal Paris Nude Mag­ique CC Cream, $29.99. 2. El­iz­a­beth Ar­den Pure Fin­ish Min­eral Pow­der Foun­da­tion SPF20, $72. 3. MAC Prep + Prime CC Colour Cor­rect­ing SPF30 in Ad­just, $54. 4. May­belline New York Face Stu­dio Mas­ter Con­ceal, $19.99. 5. Dior Flash Lu­minizer Ra­di­ance Booster Pen, $80. 6. MAC Prep + Prime CC Colour Cor­rect­ing Com­pact in Neu­tral­ize, $54. 7. Syn­ergie Eyebrite, $55. 8. In­noxa Colour Cor­rect­ing Pal­ette, $29.99.

9. Aus­tralis Colour Cor­rect­ing 4-in-1 Com­pact, $16.90.

10. Colore­science Min­eral Cor­rec­tor Pal­ette in Light to Medium, $82.80.

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