Good Food Guide - - Wellington -

This Welling­ton fine-diner of­fers a glimpse of a more glam­orous age of French haute cui­sine, per­pet­u­at­ing de­tails like sil­ver ser­vice, a pre-din­ner amuse bouche and a palate-cleans­ing sor­bet be­tween cour­ses. Chef Lau­rent Loudeac’s food is tra­di­tion­ally French with a con­tem­po­rary twist, nowhere more ev­i­dent than in the “soupe à l’oignon re­vis­itée” – a bistro clas­sic play­fully de­con­structed in the form of brioche crou­tons, blobs of caramelised onion, cheese wafers and pick­led onion chips pre­sented on a plate, with a re­duced, al­most syrupy broth poured over from a jug by the waiter. Ser­vice is slick and as­sured, while har­bour views, Louis Quinze chairs and chan­de­liers make this one of the cap­i­tal’s classi­est fine-din­ing venues, per­fect for a date. Level 3, Mu­seum Ho­tel, 90 Ca­ble St, City, ph: 04-802 8935, hip­popota­mus.co.nz Break­fast 7 days, lunch Mon-fri, high tea Wed-sun, din­ner 7 days; mains $38-$48 IN BRIEF French fine din­ing in op­u­lent sur­rounds

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