Sid Sahrawat is one of our finest chefs – his food is inventive and playful and he has a masterful way with texture. The food is always presented beautifully on an ever-changing array of ceramics, and what food it is. You might start with pomme souffle (a crisp potato pillow enclosing a truffled cream), cigars of Comté, date and sumac, and a clear broth of shiitake, white soy and kaffir lime oil. A clever extension to the space has created an extended dining area and bar to make more of the wonderful city view. This has freed up space in the main dining room for the chefs to plate up in sight of the diners, always with a calm and focused air. There is a cohesive element to the degustation menu, with its progression from light to heavier dishes. Service is exceptional and considered; and as you’d expect, the wine list is superb. The flow and pace of the meal is seamless and restaurant manager Stefano Baldin is the consummate host.
Three Lamps Plaza, 283 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby, 09 360 2122, sidart.co.nz Lunch Fri, dinner Tues-sat; degustation menus $65-$170 Finely honed degustation dining at its best IN BRIEF