Good Food Guide - - Auckland -

Sid Sahrawat is one of our finest chefs – his food is in­ven­tive and play­ful and he has a mas­ter­ful way with tex­ture. The food is al­ways pre­sented beau­ti­fully on an ever-chang­ing ar­ray of ce­ram­ics, and what food it is. You might start with pomme souf­fle (a crisp potato pil­low en­clos­ing a truf­fled cream), cigars of Comté, date and sumac, and a clear broth of shi­itake, white soy and kaf­fir lime oil. A clever ex­ten­sion to the space has cre­ated an ex­tended din­ing area and bar to make more of the won­der­ful city view. This has freed up space in the main din­ing room for the chefs to plate up in sight of the din­ers, al­ways with a calm and fo­cused air. There is a co­he­sive el­e­ment to the de­gus­ta­tion menu, with its pro­gres­sion from light to heav­ier dishes. Ser­vice is ex­cep­tional and con­sid­ered; and as you’d ex­pect, the wine list is su­perb. The flow and pace of the meal is seam­less and restaurant man­ager Ste­fano Baldin is the con­sum­mate host.

Three Lamps Plaza, 283 Pon­sonby Rd, Pon­sonby, 09 360 2122, si­ Lunch Fri, din­ner Tues-sat; de­gus­ta­tion menus $65-$170 Finely honed de­gus­ta­tion din­ing at its best IN BRIEF

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