Pre­pare per­fectly be­fore paint­ing

A fresh coat of paint will trans­form any room, and the sat­is­fac­tion you will get from do­ing the job your­self lasts long af­ter the paint has dried. But be­fore you start paint­ing walls and ceil­ings here is some ad­vice, and a few tips to help you get the job

Matamata Chronicle - - Building -

Which paint, where? There are two types of paint: wa­ter-based or sol­vent-based. Your choice de­pends on the area you’re paint­ing.

Wa­ter-based paints are pop­u­lar for most walls and ceil­ings. They’re easy to ap­ply, are touch dry in 20 to 30 min­utes, can usu­ally be re-ap­plied in two hours and you can clean up in wa­ter.

A semi-gloss or satin fin­ish acrylic gives a hard sur­face in high traf­fic ar­eas such as kitchens, fam­ily rooms, or chil­dren’s rooms where fre­quent clean­ing is a must.

Flat or low-sheen acrylic or vinyls are com­monly used for more for­mal, less-fre­quented ar­eas like din­ing rooms, bed­rooms and lounge rooms.

For ceil­ings, the use of job­spe­cific ceil­ing whites are highly rec­om­mended. They are ul­tra flat in sheen and mask sur­face im­per­fec­tions.

Gen­er­ally, sol­vent-based enamel paint is the tough­est, giv­ing the hard-wear­ing sur­face you want for ar­eas need­ing con­stant clean­ing, such as doors, win­dows and fur­ni­ture.

Walls fre­quently sub­jected to a damp at­mos­phere – kitchens, bath­rooms and laun­dries – may merit the ex­tra time it takes to ap­ply enamel.

How­ever, with the ad­vances in tech­nol­ogy, wa­ter-based enam­els are now re­plac­ing the tra­di­tional oil-based enam­els.

For flat ar­eas such as ceil­ings, walls and doors, mul­ti­ply their length by their height, sub­tract­ing win­dows and door open­ings. This gives you the area to be painted.

To es­ti­mate how much paint is needed for frames of win­dows and glass doors, mul­ti­ply their width by their height and di­vide by five.

Al­low one litre of paint per coat for each 16 square me­tres to be painted. Add an ex­tra 20 per cent to this quan­tity for rough or por­ous sur­faces. de­pends on the sur­face you’re paint­ing as well as the paint you’re us­ing.

For wa­ter-based paints on smooth sur­faces, use a 10mm nap sleeve.

For wa­ter-based paints on rough sur­faces, use a 20mm or 22mm nap sleeve. For ex­tremely rough sur­faces, use a 35mm nap sleeve.

When rolling on sol­vent or oil­based paints, use a 6mm mo­hair nap sleeve or a 5mm foam sleeve.

Make sure you se­lect a roller frame with a threaded han­dle that al­lows you to fit an ex­ten­sion to take the back­ache out of reach­ing ceil­ings and high walls.

When it comes to choos­ing ecofriendly paint, the first and most im­por­tant thing to look for is the amount of volatile or­ganic com­pounds con­tained in the prod­uct.

The lower VOCs (sol­vents that get re­leased into the air as paint dries, caus­ing nasty odours that can con­trib­ute to di­min­ished air qual­ity) the bet­ter.

If there’s no flak­ing or peel­ing, wash down well with su­gar soap to re­move dirt, grease and smoke stains.

If there’s any mould use su­gar soap, then treat with an an­ti­mould prepa­ra­tion.

Check for any cracks and over­fill with an in­te­rior filler. Sand to an even fin­ish.

If the ex­ist­ing sur­face is an enamel paint, sand thor­oughly to re­move the gloss. Then ap­ply the un­der­coat.

Use an elec­tric hot air strip­ping gun (ex­cept around win­dow frames or you’ll break the glass), or chem­i­cal paint strip­per to soften the old paint, mak­ing it easy to re­move with a blade. Then sand, wash down with su­gar soap and treat as a new sur­face.

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