Most surfers can remember their first green wave, their first barrel or their worst wipeout. But Bobby Hansen has got the unique ability to remember every wave he rides, and in a freakish way he can go back years in his recall. This particular day while day dreaming I missed his second air which he claimed was his best, when I tried to fool him saying this was it, he knew damn well it wasn’t, considering they were basically identical, how did he know? Apparently in the second air there was a piece of seaweed in the wave face, now that’s attention to detail during a moment where most
would be thinking of how the hell did I get here and how am I gonna get down!