“FRAME OF MIND: I WANTED IT.
When we finally got out there it looked BAD but I wanted it so I made the call ‘rope out’. I thought it could be 20 minute waits between sets, I didn’t want to miss one. Izzy and Stu had both told me about the wave but words cannot equate to the scale of this thing. I still have visions of some of the sets that rolled in on this day. I had a super session never falling or getting caught behind a section. One particular wave/mountain was like snow boarding as I was on it well before the bowl section so I was carving it backwards and forwards weaving down the face, crazy cool.”