WHAT SURFER ARE YOU?

New Zealand Surfing - - Introduction - If this was your reg­u­lar there is no doubt that you wouldn't turn your back on it for a dif­fer­ent ex­pe­ri­ence else­where. Photo: Cory

Dur­ing the process of putting this is­sue to­gether af­ter in­ter­view­ing Da­mon Gun­ness on the ‘One Man One Wave’ ar­ti­cle (fea­tured on pg72), it got me think­ing as to what drives cer­tain in­di­vid­u­als de­ci­sions on the chase for the per­fect wave and the evo­lu­tion of them­selves as surfers. Hu­man na­ture lends it­self to con­sis­tent be­hav­iour and as hu­mans we tend not to take change that well. As surfers this leads to a rou­tine of favourites or what could be termed re­li­able pat­terns, ones which we know work for our­selves and which we know we can rely on. To take risk and ven­ture out on a limb is of­ten only sought af­ter by a few. But why? When I speak of this rou­tine I am re­fer­ring to the way they go about their surfs, the way they pre­pare, the mu­sic they lis­ten to and even the break they choose to surf. Why do the ma­jor­ity of surfers al­ways head to one cer­tain break be­com­ing regulars, get­ting to know its very moods, what makes it tick, per­haps at­tracted to the ca­ma­raderie of the lineup amongst other surfers. Sure they get to know th­ese reg­u­lar waves bet­ter than any oth­ers they may have surfed, they may feel as if their surf­ing is at an all-time level at th­ese breaks, and when they travel they sim­ply can’t work out the dif­fer­ent wave and have a less than en­joy­able surf, so the next time they re­vert back to their known. It is a spe­cial feel­ing to know you have some­thing in line in life, some­thing you can con­trol and when you surf the lo­cal you have be­come at one with, each and ev­ery ses­sion you know what that day will bring well in ad­vance, within rea­son of course. You know how to get there with­out think­ing about it, who might pos­si­bly be there, what time and tide will be best, which waves to take, you put on your favourite song and wax up your board in the same man­ner that you have done so for soo long be­cause that’s the tonic that you had your best surf on many moons ago so you stuck to it. But does all this les­son your ex­pe­ri­ence and your growth as a surfer? They say ‘va­ri­ety is the spice of life’, so wouldn’t surf­ing some­where dif­fer­ent ev­ery day, get­ting to know many dif­fer­ent waves, places, peo­ple be of in­ter­est? Surely by surf­ing a mixed bag of wave types would help your surf­ing, rather than the same old. But are we will­ing to take the risk? Is it that time is so pre­cious that we stick to what we know works not will­ing to take a gam­ble? Or is that re­la­tion­ship you have with your lo­cal/reg­u­lar break and be­ing able to ride it to the best of your abil­ity and on the best days it of­fers up, all that more im­por­tant. There is no right or wrong, just ques­tions that we can all ask our­selves. Do we buy a new cd and start our ses­sion with some new mu­sic, change the wax we use or in­stead of turn­ing right at that ma­jor in­ter­sec­tion do you turn left and go some­where new? If this ed­i­to­rial makes you won­der, then give it a go. If not keep do­ing what you do well and en­joy! Yours in surf­ing, Cory Scott and the team at NZ Surf­ing

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