Surf­ing, more than rid­ing a wave

New Zealand Surfing - - News -

As I drove up the mid­dle of the is­land re­cently chas­ing a fresh swell out on the East Coast and the black of dark­ness gave way to a crim­son dawn, it got me think­ing, es­pe­cially af­ter driv­ing two hours and not see­ing another soul, that as surfers we get to ex­pe­ri­ence mo­ments like this on a reg­u­lar ba­sis more than any other. Our lives re­volve around mak­ing the most of a per­fect swell, so early starts are par for the course and we milk ev­ery ray of light from that day right through un­til dark­ness sets in. Dur­ing th­ese hours we be­come priv­i­leged to wit­ness mo­ments that most av­er­age Ki­wis never get to see in their life­time, and when you con­sider that New Zealan­der's spend more time in the out­doors than any other of the world’s pop­u­la­tions, to think that we are a tiny frac­tion of a per­cent­age of the world that is out ap­pre­ci­at­ing the mind blow­ing beauty of this planet is sur­real. Some of us live and work in the con­crete jun­gles and get to es­cape for some weekend relief, while oth­ers are uber priv­i­leged to live in ar­eas that pro­vide day in day out con­nec­tions with th­ese finer mo­ments. The morn­ing run down the tree lined val­ley is deaf­en­ing un­der the song of bird life with Tui's, Bell­birds and the Kereru (wood Pi­geon) tak­ing flight for the morn­ing. You burst on out onto the beach, the clean sweep­ings, left with no sign of prior visi­tors and your foot­prints mark the first oc­cu­pancy for this new day. You run around the rocks star­tling a seal which is rest­ing up bask­ing in the morn­ing sun, and make your way to the pad­dle out spot. The wa­ter is clean and re­fresh­ing as you dip your head for the first time, this is what it's all about! The waves are pump­ing and that en­hances the whole ex­pe­ri­ence and stoke, then a fin breaks the sur­face out be­yond the in­com­ing swells, you be­come anx­ious, your heart races and you be­gin to think about head­ing in, then in an in­stant a pod of dol­phins

be­gin to frolic in amongst the very waves you are rid­ing. Your semi mo­ment of near panic is trans­formed into pure ec­stasy as th­ese amaz­ing crea­tures be­gin to play with you glid­ing un­der your board as you take off down the line. Another lone surfer pad­dles out to share this mo­ment he has wit­nessed from the shore, you greet each other with a dis­tant raise of the eye brows, be­fore exchanging ver­bal niceties. Much to your sur­prise you each learn that you live around the cor­ner from each other and agree to catch up the fol­low­ing weekend and head out to­gether. You've been surf­ing since early dawn and head in for a bite to eat, sit­ting on the dune watch­ing wave af­ter per­fect wave roll in, eat­ing faster and faster so you can get back out there sooner. In the dis­tance sev­eral tourists walk the beach tak­ing pho­tos of the panorama, they pass you as you head on back out and ex­change greet­ings and re­mark at the amaz­ing place you live in. Soon they will re­turn home back to a place where scenes like this can only be seen in mag­a­zines, yet you keep on liv­ing the dream! The day couldn't have been scripted bet­ter, as you have your eighth "just one more wave" and as only dark­ness drives you from the lineup, you make your way in be­hind a wad­dling en­dan­gered Pen­guin re­turn­ing from its day at sea to rest in the fo­liage which drapes this coast­line. As you drive on home with salt crust drop­ping in your eyes mak­ing them wa­ter over, you re­flect. Dur­ing this one day of many you will ex­pe­ri­ence from here on, you have had the priv­i­lege, not the right, to lay wit­ness upon mo­ments that should never be taken for granted, from the ris­ing sun, to the clean wa­ter and the wildlife that shared that place in time with you. Ask your­self how spe­cial that day would have been if none of this ex­isted, if it was only a wave that was rid­den? Then you will re­alise that surf­ing is more than just a wave. Pro­tect and stand up for days like this and the things that en­com­pass it, af­ter all many can­not com­pre­hend that this even ex­ists in this mod­ern time, only you have seen and heard so only you can keep it all in check! Yours in surf­ing, Cory Scott and the Team at NZ Surf­ing Mag­a­zine.

You've just rid­den a wave for a kilo­me­tre and as you walk back around for 'Just one more' be­fore dark­ness sets in, you ad­mire the set­ting sun, the golden glow of the sand dunes and you get lost in your own lit­tle world for a mo­ment and feel like you roam this planet alone. Surf­ing, it's more than just rid­ing waves. En­joy the mo­ment! Photo: Cory.

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