New Zealand Surfing - - 5 On Five -

If you have trav­elled to Indo be­fore you'll know that the talk of swell rules all con­ver­sa­tion, the next fore­casted swell, where are you go­ing, where have you been? Claims of the swell you missed the day be­fore you rolled in, or the swell you'll miss af­ter you leave. It seems when try­ing to bat­tle an Indo guru for brag­ging rights, just face it you're fight­ing a los­ing bat­tle. For most mere mor­tals the an­nual Indo jaunt is usu­ally booked months in ad­vance and is sched­uled around life com­mit­ments so sim­ply not get­ting on the flight home is not an op­tion. Some­times you score, other times you strike out but you still have a hell time and make the most of the time you have. If you hap­pened to be in Indo dur­ing Septem­ber and Oc­to­ber of this year, it's more than likely that you scored big time! The swells just kept on com­ing with the first week of Septem­ber see­ing the en­tire In­dian Ocean light up with a swell that has been touted as one for the record books. We join five Ki­wis on five is­lands of In­done­sia for the swell of the year. Nias is al­ways spe­cial. Since I was a kid, look­ing up to the older pioneers like Thorn­ton Fal­lan­der and Joe Engel, I al­ways knew I'd like the wave. The peo­ple there are amaz­ing and it's a pretty mag­i­cal set up with a key­hole pad­dle out. All the home-stays are right on the wa­ter so you're wak­ing up, lift­ing your head and see­ing smok­ing waves com­ing through. I've had a few nice trips there the last cou­ple of years and like any­where, you get to know the charts and the right swells to be on. This one was one of those! I had Nias in mind the whole time, but I was ac­tu­ally go­ing on a trip with Mikala and a few bro's to the Ments. I had ev­ery­thing pre­pared for there, then last minute I ended up call­ing Nias and couldn’t have been more stoked on my call. This swell was nice. It was solid, good crew, good tides, winds, ev­ery­thing. For six days straight it was on. There were two big days which was what we went there for, but you're hav­ing that much fun there in all con­di­tions. We went for the usual scope around to the other spots, but on the big day I put a solid seven hours straight out at Saroke Point. The boys, Koby Ab­ber­ton, Ben­jamin Sanchez, Diego San­tos and Alan Riou we're charg­ing. But the lo­cal boys held their own as well. Justin was on the bombs and the man out there An­ton was school­ing ev­ery­one with his 10ft switch-foot pits. The dou­ble ups are the ones you want though, the ones that have that nice thick lip. You can take off su­per deep on them get some nice drive and with that wave be­ing so per­fect 9 times out of 10 you're get­ting spat out. It was the best Nias I've had for sure. We had a rad late sea­son here as I'm sure ev­ery­one's heard. Two swells a week, for al­most two months straight. Those are the days that re­mind you why you live in Bali.

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