5 ON FIVE
If you have travelled to Indo before you'll know that the talk of swell rules all conversation, the next forecasted swell, where are you going, where have you been? Claims of the swell you missed the day before you rolled in, or the swell you'll miss after you leave. It seems when trying to battle an Indo guru for bragging rights, just face it you're fighting a losing battle. For most mere mortals the annual Indo jaunt is usually booked months in advance and is scheduled around life commitments so simply not getting on the flight home is not an option. Sometimes you score, other times you strike out but you still have a hell time and make the most of the time you have. If you happened to be in Indo during September and October of this year, it's more than likely that you scored big time! The swells just kept on coming with the first week of September seeing the entire Indian Ocean light up with a swell that has been touted as one for the record books. We join five Kiwis on five islands of Indonesia for the swell of the year. Nias is always special. Since I was a kid, looking up to the older pioneers like Thornton Fallander and Joe Engel, I always knew I'd like the wave. The people there are amazing and it's a pretty magical set up with a keyhole paddle out. All the home-stays are right on the water so you're waking up, lifting your head and seeing smoking waves coming through. I've had a few nice trips there the last couple of years and like anywhere, you get to know the charts and the right swells to be on. This one was one of those! I had Nias in mind the whole time, but I was actually going on a trip with Mikala and a few bro's to the Ments. I had everything prepared for there, then last minute I ended up calling Nias and couldn’t have been more stoked on my call. This swell was nice. It was solid, good crew, good tides, winds, everything. For six days straight it was on. There were two big days which was what we went there for, but you're having that much fun there in all conditions. We went for the usual scope around to the other spots, but on the big day I put a solid seven hours straight out at Saroke Point. The boys, Koby Abberton, Benjamin Sanchez, Diego Santos and Alan Riou we're charging. But the local boys held their own as well. Justin was on the bombs and the man out there Anton was schooling everyone with his 10ft switch-foot pits. The double ups are the ones you want though, the ones that have that nice thick lip. You can take off super deep on them get some nice drive and with that wave being so perfect 9 times out of 10 you're getting spat out. It was the best Nias I've had for sure. We had a rad late season here as I'm sure everyone's heard. Two swells a week, for almost two months straight. Those are the days that remind you why you live in Bali.