5 FIVE

New Zealand Surfing - - 5 On Five -

Septem­ber and Oc­to­ber were crazy in Indo this year, there were non-stop swells. Ev­ery week you would check the charts and there would be another big blob of colour head­ing up past W.A and just as the cur­rent swell started to ease another one would hit. Some of them were of­ten too big for a lot of spots around Bali and crew that had the lux­ury of head­ing off to chase swells scored some se­ri­ous big bar­rels around Indo. I was locked into Bali as I was run­ning all my coach­ing pro­grammes and camps up there at the time, so had to make the most of what Bali had to of­fer. Dur­ing the peak of the swells I scored pump­ing Padang on a few oc­ca­sions but this ses­sion was ac­tu­ally a cou­ple of days af­ter the swell had peaked, once it had dropped enough for this spot which doesn't han­dle a big swell. I knew the tides were per­fect for it and was just hop­ing the swell had dropped enough so it wasn't go­ing to be wash­ing through. When I ar­rived at first light it was too low and washed out, with no one out. But I could see that once the tide pushed in it was go­ing to start lin­ing up. I started mak­ing my way out and by the time I got out there it had started to line up and then it just turned on, it was one of the best ses­sions I've had at this spot! It def­i­nitely wasn't the big­gest bar­rels go­ing around over this sea­sons swells, but it was some of the most per­fect I scored for sure.

You see that swell? You see that bump? Break­ing it down, it pretty much had all of Indo froth­ing. Every­body and ev­ery­one, from pro's to bro's, from un­der­ground shred­ders to an­nual once a year Indo cam­paign­ers, from pho­togs and filmers, team man­agers and swell chasers, well ba­si­cally it was a to­tal ar­chi­pel­ago is­land froth fest! I re­mem­ber track­ing it from South Africa to West OZ, up to Indo, and let's be hon­est, it wasn't just a swell, it was ac­tu­ally three solid bumps run­ning out over a nine day pe­riod with a day in be­tween them, now what sets this apart from all oth­ers is that it was thick, clean and no over lap­ping, no wonk, no lumps, just per­fect. Well this ba­si­cally meant all of Indo would be fir­ing at some point due to another im­por­tant fac­tor of a moon tide and light trades....so ba­si­cally you had three dif­fer­ent swells and the best way to do this down the Bali end of Indo is to chase via the Bal­iWaveHunter, that way we could be in three sep­a­rate is­lands over the nine day pe­riod...shit the swell was so good that the owner and brother of mine Made " Rocky " Se­naya even threw in an ex­tra day. So it was set in mo­tion be­fore it started, a triple blob with a con­trast of colours from red to orange to even pur­ple. A boat full of pros with In­dobased pho­tog Mick Cur­ley and filmer Francesco Silli ba­si­cally meant we had shred­ders and charg­ers from Bali, NZ, Aust, USA, and Italy...the fun­ni­est thing is the boat filled so fast with the qual­ity of ev­ery­one that we had to leave some pros be­hind...first in, first bunk. The ini­tial plan was to truck straight from Bali over to the Western Sum­bawa side that holds some of the most in­cred­i­ble reefs to ever bless us surfers for the two first bumps, that would be The Lady Scar and in­fa­mous Su­per­sucks, plus all in be­tween and fur­ther north, and trust me there are so many waves in this re­gion only ac­ces­si­ble by boat. Then track back to the dirty Old Ladies wave of Deserts. Set­ting off the evening be­fore I awoke to find us on the south side of Lom­bok, now don't get me wrong, I love a quick sail but the swell down this nether re­gion, with those two bot­tom­less ocean trenches to cross with wind is gnarly, we had sailed right into a gale­force blow that had triple strength hell gusts of 40-50knots. The Cap­tain made the call so we pushed on through, the Ba­los, Bol Adi Pu­tra and Garut were shit­ting them­selves as the boat got pounded and pounded to the point where we snapped our back left trail­ing rig­ger, that was a heavy sit­u­a­tion as a crew mem­ber slid down the shaft like Rambo and hacked at the rope and ny­lon as wind and surges pounded the boat, fark it was all on and this was with no swell !!!! It got to a point where Bol had his vest and board­ies on, and his lit­tle 5'10" un­der his arm ready to jump, ha­ha­haa...jump into what? As this was go­ing on Mick Cur­ley and Aus­tralian Shred­der Nathan White were rid­ing surges cheer­ing into the wind with cold Bin­tangs on hand hahahhaa... epic­ness al­ready and the swell hadn't even ar­rived. As we limped into the Scars Bay of Je­lenga we were greeted by clean one foot drib­ble, ar­rrrrrrhhhh. Noth­ing bet­ter than ar­riv­ing be­fore a splen­did fore­casted triple bump. Sun up....solid thick lines were hit­ting the top sec­tion and flaw­lessly grind­ing down the reef. What made this spe­cial was the next six days we found just our boat load sam­pling this good­ness, even bet­ter, fore­casted were light trades which ended up been per­fect light North East­erly from sun­rise to sun­set. I re­mem­ber sit­ting in the lineup with huge bar­rells grind­ing and spit­ting, think­ing about all the other op­tions over the ar­chi­pel­ago that would be fir­ing, pretty much the whole god damn chain. Th­ese are swells I dream to chase and al­ways chase with pre­ci­sion, deep down I just wish they were al­ways this per­fect, sup­pose we find out on the next bump.

Toby Hur­ren, Mentawais. Photo: Brad Mas­ters.

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