DA­MON GUN­NESS

New Zealand Surfing - - Rising / Grom -

Wave War­riors film made by Astro Deck and Her­bie Flethcher star­ring Chris­tian Fletcher and his brother Nathan was my first real glimpse of some Indo per­fec­tion, surf­ing a left han­der down the line from Uluwatu, which one you may say? The most me­chan­i­cal and per­fect one to my 12 year old eyes left me won­der­ing when I would be able to surf such a wave like Bin­gin. Who would of thought only years later while qual­i­fy­ing in the NZ Scholas­tic Team in 1992 to com­pete at the World Ju­nior Ti­tles on Kuta Beach that I would get my first taste of some Indo per­fec­tion. It was for the next four years that I would qual­ify for the NZ Team al­low­ing me to travel to Bali and en­gulf this truly mag­i­cal place. Surf­ing in board­shorts, blue glassy bar­rels, amaz­ing food, the hu­mid musty street smells. Liv­ing on a su­per bud­get for months on end, in the land where there were no rules, are all things that come to mind when think­ing of my first con­nec­tions. But above all it was the waves and shar­ing the waves with like-minded peo­ple, that im­pressed me most. Never had I ex­pe­ri­enced such hol­low clean and at times big waves any­where in the world. Fast for­ward 24 years and with much smaller win­dows of op­por­tu­nity I still find my­self head­ing back to In­done­sia chas­ing swells that seem give me this hit of indo per­fec­tion, and one day maybe that one wave that may make my life com­plete.

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