Ask an expert

YOUR GARDENING QUESTIONS THIS MONTH

Q WINTER BEE FOOD Which flowering plants are good for feeding bees over winter? My garden is short on flowers when summer is over. Could you suggest some trees and shrubs that will cover the gap? Do I need to put out sugar water in the meantime? ANNA SHORT, AUCKLAND

AIt is a lot harder to find good flowering plants for bees over winter. But the bees are also out and about less. Mostly bees reduce in numbers and stay in their hives during the coldest months, so the requirement for bee food is much less too. Good plants for bees that flower from autumn on include rosemary, borage, pineapple sage, sedums, rudbeckia, Japanese anenomes, helenium and native hebes. And of course, that winter standby – camellias – are good for bees, especially if they are single, open forms. Some cultivars with multiple layers of petals either have no stamens and pollen or are so densely packed that bees have difficulty reaching it. Camellias have high quality, protein-rich pollen that is a particularly useful, nutritious food source to store over winter and also in spring when bee numbers are building up again in the hive. Coming into spring there is still a scarcity of good bee food, and blossom fruit trees such as apples and pears are a good source. Native trees that flower in winter make good bee food too. Examples include tree fuchsia, weeping mahoe, five-finger and matipo. Check out treesforbeesnz.org for a year-round list of flowering plants that are attractive to bees. But don’t be tempted to feed sugar water to bees. There are strict rules around sugar in honey and you may inadvertently be interfering with a beekeeper’s livelihood. Beekeepers will feed their bees sugar at the right times if it is necessary. Karen Knight, businessofbees.com Q PINE PARTNERS Can you grow other species under Norfolk pines? I have one in a corner that I want to pretty up with kowhais and snowball trees. REBECCA DRUMMOND, PALMERSTON NORTH

AWe used to have a big Norfolk pine near the house and there were never any problems with the growth of a wide range of plants at its base and nearby.

There are problems however with the debris that falls from the tree as these can damage softer, larger leaves such as those of the tractor seat ligularia, piercing them as they fall to earth. Also, we found bromeliads weren’t a good idea as they tended to become swamped by the tree litter. Tough grasses such as liriopes were successful, but native grasses such as the carex species were a pain as the fronds of the Norfolk got tangled with the hair-like grass leaves. It’s better to stick with shrubs and trees.

The huge roots are usually widely spaced so digging planting holes isn’t a problem. When our 30m high tree was finally felled and the stump ground out it was astonishing how far and wide the roots went, but to be expected in terms of the height and weight of the tree above ground. Julian Matthews

Q MYSTERY TREE This tree was in the garden when we moved in. It’s spectacular in bloom. Many passersby want to know the name and ask for a cutting. Do you know what it is? BOBBIE BROWN, WARKWORTH

AThis lovely tree is Hibiscus mutabilis. In the United States it is known as the Confederate rose. The large white double blooms fade to deep pink as they age. It grows to 3m high and 2m in width, and is very hardy and usually deciduous.

Hibiscus mutabilis seems to have gone out of fashion but it should be more widely grown. Plants are hard to find but Russell Fransham stocks it (subtropical.co.nz).

I asked Russell to share his growing tips. Russell says it is easy to grow from cuttings taken in autumn or spring. They should be cut from last summer’s growth to about 20cm long with no leaves.

Plant the cuttings where you want them to grow or alternatively into coarse sand in a pot left outdoors in a lightly shaded, damp spot.

Roots will develop on most cuttings by the beginning of the growing season. Very simple!

Hibiscus mutabilis performs best in full sun in most well-drained soils and is tolerant of wind and light frost. It can be pruned to maintain a more bushy form if preferred and the flowers are produced at the tips of branches throughout autumn to early winter. Barbara Smith Q TOXIC BEAUTY Can you please identify this plant found in a wet area in Tauranga? The raceme of seed heads is about 18cm long and the flowers are tiny and insignificant. LIZ MCLAREN, AUCKLAND

APokeweed is the rather derogatory name shared by both Phytolacca americana and Phytolacca octandra.

The name pokeweed refers to its traditional use as food by the rural poor in the southern states of America. Don’t try this at home! Both plants are very poisonous. The leaves have to be boiled twice to remove the toxins.

Phytolacca americana is grown for the vivid colour of its leaves in autumn and the conspicuous berries. Most selected garden forms have erect clubs of closely-packed, shiny berries. Your picture shows the pendulous hanging form.

Pokeweed likes a site in sun or partial shade with rich, well-drained soil where water is plentiful. Propagate from seeds, rooted basal shoots or cuttings.

Phytolacca octandra, on the other hand, is a weed. Also known as inkweed or ink berry, it grows and matures quickly, producing many long-lived seeds. Stock avoid it but the berries are eaten by birds which are not affected by the toxin because the small hard-shelled seeds remain intact in the digestive system and are eliminated whole, so are widely dispersed. Barbara Smith