Cleaner Com­bus­tion

CLEAN­ING THE IN­SIDE OF YOUR COM­BUS­TION CHAM­BER IS EASIER THAN YOU MIGHT THINK

NZ Performance Car - - Feature Product - WORDS AND PHO­TOS: MAR­CUS GIB­SON

While many fu­els may in­clude en­gine-clean­ing ad­di­tives, the fact is that these com­prise a very small per­cent­age of the to­tal chem­i­cal make-up of that gaso­line. So, the clean­ing job is a lit­tle like putting half a drop of dish­wash­ing liq­uid in your sink and ex­pect­ing it to cut through the grease. This be­comes even more of an is­sue when the fuel doesn’t touch the back side of the valves at all, as in di­rect-in­jec­tion en­gines, so there’s no chance that the de­posits that build up on the back side and the stems of your valves will be cleaned off by the fuel, without com­plete dis­as­sem­bly of your en­gine. Or so one might think. CRC In­dus­tries has de­vel­oped its aerosol GDI IVD In­take Valve Cleaner with 150 times more con­cen­trate of ad­vanced CO­zol than any petrol on the mar­ket. Ap­plied di­rectly into the back of the valves through the in­take, it re­moves the built-up car­bon de­posits that form in any en­gine, GDI or not — they sim­ply tend to build up faster in GDI en­gines.

Why do we need to worry about these de­posits? Well, your en­gine’s per­for­mance for one. As these de­posits build up, they be­gin to re­strict airflow into the head and weaken the seal be­tween the valve and seat. This will cause in­creased fuel con­sump­tion, poor emis­sions, and a loss of power and throt­tle re­sponse.

HOW TO AP­PLY

It’s a pretty easy ap­pli­ca­tion process to use CRC GDI IVD In­take Valve Cleaner, although the process will dif­fer de­pend­ing on your en­gine and chas­sis. On a car with a mass-airflow (MAF) sen­sor, you’ll want to lo­cate the sen­sor and re­move the in­take pipe off the front. It’s im­por­tant to do it this side, as the en­gine still needs to be able to run. On any ve­hi­cle without a MAF sen­sor, sim­ply re­move your fil­ter and you’re ready to spray. It’s turbo and in­ter­cooler safe, so spray­ing di­rectly into the turbo is fine, and has the added ben­e­fit of clean­ing both com­po­nents.

Be­fore spray­ing, en­sure the en­gine is up to run­ning temp. In­sert the spray noz­zle past the MAF sen­sor, as any spray on the sen­sor could cause a fault code to be thrown. Get some­one to hold the throt­tle at 2000rpm, then spray in 30-sec­ond in­ter­vals un­til the 400ml can is empty. If you find the en­gine tries to stall, sim­ply in­crease throt­tle pres­sure, but do not ex­ceed 3500rpm. Once the can is empty, let the car idle for a minute then switch off and let it heat soak for an hour. Use this time to re­assem­ble any­thing you have dis­as­sem­bled, ready for the fi­nal part — 10 min­utes of 100-kilo­me­tre-per­hour driv­ing.

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