Not a lot has been hap­pen­ing re­cently, apart from a quick trip to Aus­tralia for the Cliffhanger 4WD comp back in May. While I was away the jobs that need to be done to var­i­ous ve­hi­cles in the fleet con­tinue to mount up and it is dif­fi­cult to know where to start.

One job that I did man­age to get out of the way be­fore head­ing away was the wa­ter pump re­place­ment on the Dis­cov­ery V8. Straight­for­ward job un­der nor­mal cir­cum­stances but I also needed to com­pletely flush out the cool­ing sys­tem af­ter us­ing eggs to stop the wa­ter pump from leak­ing in the first place. Yes, eggs and they did the job won­der­fully.

The wa­ter pump start­ing leak­ing while I was at least six hours driv­ing from home and the leak was so bad that I was los­ing a cou­ple of litres of wa­ter ev­ery 30kms. Out of town there aren’t many places you can get prod­ucts such as Bars Leak to try and solve the prob­lem but eggs are eas­ily found and were the ‘orig­i­nal’ stop leak prod­uct.

I used just two eggs, ini­tially plan­ning on try­ing just the yokes to start with. I suc­cess­fully sep­a­rated the yoke and white for the first egg but the sec­ond I missed and the whole egg went in. Oh well, time to keep mov­ing.

Loaded with 25 litres of wa­ter in var­i­ous con­tain­ers I started off for the first 30- 40kms. Stop­ping the first time ev­ery­thing was OK but it took about a litre. Sec­ond stop, there was a lot of froth­ing and an­other litre re­quired. By the time I had cov­ered 100 odd kilo­me­tres the leak has vir­tu­ally stopped but I still wasn’t chanc­ing it and con­tin­ued to check the level ev­ery 40- 50km’s and it didn’t re­quire any more wa­ter.

Once home the eggs proved so good that it was still an­other month be­fore I did get around to chang­ing the wa­ter pump, just by top­ping up each time I was go­ing some­where.

When it came to the wa­ter pump re­place­ment I first re­moved the fan and then drained the ra­di­a­tor be­fore re­mov­ing it to flush it out prop­erly. With the ve­hi­cle still out­side the work­shop, the en­gine was con­tin­u­ally flushed with the hose while run­ning to try and get as much con­tam­i­nates as pos­si­ble out of the sys­tem. Once done it was then in­side and the re­moval of the wa­ter pump be­gan in earnest.

With the ra­di­a­tor out it was easy ac­cess to the wa­ter pump but first it was loosen the pul­ley bolts be­fore tak­ing off the ser­pen­tine drive belt and re­mov­ing the belt ten­sioner. The pul­ley needs to come off to swap over to the new wa­ter pump, but also to get ac­cess to a cou­ple of the bolts.

A help­ful tip when re­mov­ing bolts that are vary­ing in length, such as a wa­ter pump, is to make up a card­board tem­plate of the out­line of the item and put each bolt as it is re­moved into the card­board in its ap­pro­pri­ate lo­ca­tion. This makes it very easy to know what length bolt goes where when re­assem­bling.

With the old wa­ter pump off, it seemed like the prob­lem was only a leak­ing gas­ket, but as I al­ready had the new wa­ter pump it would be changed. The mat­ing sur­faces were thor­oughly scraped clean of all old gas­ket ma­te­rial ready to take the new gas­ket. I also used a small amount of Loc­tite’s Mas­ter Gas­ket to give a good seal be­fore re­assem­bly. All the bolts were wired brushed clean and given a coat­ing of cop­per grease.

Once fit­ted the bolts were torqued to the cor­rect spec­i­fi­ca­tion and then the pul­ley, belt ten­sioner and drive belt could be fit­ted. The ra­di­a­tor and hoses fol­lowed and fi­nally the fan and cowl­ing. The coolant or an­tifreeze is a 50/ 50 mix and is best done in small lots of wa­ter and then coolant un­less you are us­ing a pre­mixed coolant.

While the Dis­cov­ery was in the work­shop I also gave it an oil, fil­ter and air fil­ter change. It wasn’t due but it had done 5000kms since the last change and a lot of that had been off road in dusty and dirty con­di­tions.

LR90 has now taken over in the work­shop as it needs some on-go­ing main­te­nance. When I did the CV repair ear­lier this year I no­ticed that the drop arm ball joint rub­ber boot is torn so the ball joint needs re­plac­ing.

It is not easy to do a repair on the drop arm in situ but it can be done, although I think I will take the easy op­tion and re­place the com­plete drop arm with a new one, just be­cause there is one held in stock.

Also the new heater still hasn’t been fit­ted into LR90 and with the Off Lim­its 4WD Ice Buster event com­ing up soon at Waiouru I think I will be need­ing the heater.


Card­board bolt tem­plate.

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