The islands of the Hauraki Gulf are glorious in every season – and thanks to a network of ferries, water taxis and guided tours, many of them are accessible even if you don’t have a boat. Here are nine excellent outings to plan now.
It’s pretty much a requirement of citizenship for Aucklanders to make the hot and rocky hike to Rangitoto’s summit. And there’s no excuse for not doing so, with regular ferries stopping at Rangitoto and adjoining Motutapu Island. The Department of Conservation campsite at Home Bay on Motutapu is pretty basic (no showers, but there are flushing loos), but that’s how we like it. Make a magical evening of it with a guided kayak tour to the island, then hike to the summit for sunset views of the city, eat a barbecue dinner, and paddle back as the city lights sparkle across the harbour. Vintage buffs should time their visit to check out Bach 38 Museum, and amble along the coast to see some 1920s gems still in use.
An Auckland icon Kawau Island
Yes, you’ll need to drive through the hell that is the Warkworth-matakana Road intersection, but you’ll forget all that as you slip off right to Sandspit wharf and catch one of the frequent Kawau Cruises or water taxis to Kawau Island. Think of it as Waiheke 40 years ago. Most jetties belong to private baches and you can find ones to rent on Bookabach. Join the daily mail run cruise that circuits the island and stop by the historic Mansion House for tea and views of those much-photographed peacocks and wallabies. Flexible water taxis give you time for burgers and beer at Bon Accord Bar & Bistro at the Kawau Boating Club, where there’s a great garden bar and a local or a boatie with a great yarn. You could make it a fancy weekend at the boathouse-style lodging and dining at The Beach House in Vivian Bay, or if you can rustle up 49 friends (or up to 60 at peak season) you can share the old-school camping delights of Camp Bentzon.
Great Barrier Island
You can dodge the Ponsonby-by-the-sea that Medlands Beach and surrounds have become, and dig into the old-school character of the Barrier. Hardy types take the five-hour car ferry: the bonus is watching the crew loading trailers and cars to the centimetre, and the double bonus is spotting pods of playful dolphins that might accompany you over. The alternative: An easy flight (getting to the airport can take longer than the flight itself) is less than $100 each way. Once you’re there, there are shuttles and tours, but for complete freedom, rent a car. Accommodation ranges from cold-tap campgrounds to $1000-a-night lodges, and the cafes are small-town friendly. The Curragh Irish Pub is legendary, as are the Kaitoke Hot Springs, and there are walks and hikes aplenty. Our favourite: The Wairarapa Graves tracks, featuring the prettiest gravesite in Auckland built for victims of the 1894 SS Wairarapa shipwreck. Complete with picket fence, it sums up the stories (and legends) of the Barrier.
The tiny holiday community of Rakino, just east of Motutapu, feels like a holiday destination in the 1930s and 40s: Fewer than 80 baches with a handful for rent, completely off-grid, tracks and paths to gorgeous clear beaches and only three kilometres of road. In summer, the regular Belaire ferry is timed for a sweet weekend day trip (leaving the city at 10am, back at the end of the afternoon). Beaches are within a short walk of the Sandy Bay jetty – you can walk around to the rickety pier where Governor George Grey first established himself, or up and over the hills to the other bays.
Cute, tiny and off-grid A stone’s throw away Pollen Island
Strictly speaking, it’s in the upper Waitematā Harbour rather than the Gulf, but this marine reserve sort of counts as the closest island to the city. Cyclists on the northwestern motorway will recognise this wee slip, accessed around Traherne Island on the southern side of the motorway, edged by Rosebank Peninsula and Waterview. At mid-high tide you can potter down from the reserves on side roads off Great North Road and there’s kayak or dinghy access off the boat slip at Walker Road in Point Chevalier. Birdwatchers can spot gulls, terns, godwits, sandpipers and oystercatchers making the most of the shellfish in the tidal estuary. doc.govt.nz
Since the dawn of The Oyster Inn and the love lavished by Monocle magazine, Waiheke has been on the top of every cool visitor list. There’s nothing wrong with eating, drinking wine, or lounging on a beach, but if you want a more active view of the island, take a guided kayak trip from Oneroa Beach to explore sea caves, rock gardens and bits of the coastline that you’d only see if you had a millionaire buddy with a beach house. You can hike off-road to Palm Beach, bus back to the ferry or stop on the way for some welldeserved eats. There are guided ecowalks, or the adrenalin-and-eco combo of the zipline.
Twenty-two years on from Once Were Warriors, another important film is tackling the subject of domestic violence. One Thousand Ropes (opening 23 March), director Tusi Tamasese’s impressive follow-up to The Orator, features a central character named Ilisa, a pregnant young woman who returns to live with her estranged father, Maea, after severe beatings by her boyfriend.
Ilisa is powerfully played by Samoan New Zealander Frankie Adams. The 23-year-old came to national prominence seven years ago playing Ula Levi on Shortland Street, but she’s deftly avoided any post-shorty curse. Along with TV roles in the Australian series Wentworth and US sci-fi drama The Expanse, Adams is garnering acclaim for her cinematic debut after One Thousand Ropes’ Berlin Film Festival premiere last month.
Right Domestic violence is one of A Thousand Ropes’ powerful, important themes.
FRANKIE ADAMS When I read the script, it made me feel nervous and excited. It’s a big responsibility. I have really close family and friends who have been through similar experiences. I spoke to them about it, because I wanted to hear their opinion, and they were all really open and lovely about it, because they knew they wanted the story to be told too. Although a lot of women – and potentially men – have been through similar experiences, a lot of them come out with this undeniable strength from overcoming a relationship like that, and they’re actually okay with letting that story be told, and for people to be discussing it. It’s not an easy thing to bring up at all, but with a film everyone can discuss it with a bit more ease because it’s already put up there for them.