Tokyo by Night

Tokyo, a city con­stantly evolv­ing – much like Auck­land – is the fo­cus of pho­tog­ra­pher Tom Blach­ford’s newest ex­hi­bi­tion, proudly pre­sented by Asahi Su­per Dry.

Paper Boy - - Culture - PHOTOGRAPHY TOM BLACH­FORD

Mel­bourne pho­tog­ra­pher Tom Blach­ford, renowned for his work in Wired, Vogue and Wall­pa­per mag­a­zines, cap­tures the beauty of Tokyo after dark in a new ex­hi­bi­tion, Tokyo by Night, at Par­nell’s Pineap­ple Bar. Asahi Su­per Dry, which col­lab­o­rated with Blach­ford to bring the strik­ing photography col­lec­tion to New Zealand, cel­e­brates a city where no two nights are the same.

“Tom seeks to un­lock the tran­sient beauty of Tokyo, a city con­stantly mov­ing and evolv­ing. His im­agery evokes a sense of won­der and mys­tique – the build­ings, the lights and the dark­ness merge to cre­ate a unique neon beauty. By cap­tur­ing his jour­ney we can be­gin to un­lock the se­crets of Tokyo by night, a world only Asahi Su­per Dry can bring to you,” says Jade Clark, Mar­ket­ing Man­ager for Asahi New Zealand.

Blach­ford’s se­ries cap­tures land­mark Ja­panese ar­chi­tec­ture in­clud­ing The Asahi Beer Hall, aka the Golden Flame, de­signed by Philippe Starck; the Fuji TV Head­quar­ters de­signed by Kenzo Tange; and a cherry picker view of the Na­gakin Cap­sule Tower de­signed by Kisho Kurokawa.

“Tokyo has an amaz­ing sci-fi aes­thetic and by pho­tograph­ing late after dark I wanted to cap­ture a side of it that is rarely seen,” says Blach­ford. “I wanted to cap­ture the feel­ing that struck me when I first vis­ited the city, that you have been some­how trans­ported to an­other di­men­sion. I wanted peo­ple to ask not where they were taken, but when.” Tokyo By Night is open to the pub­lic at Pineap­ple Bar, 207 Par­nell Rd, Par­nell, Auck­land for two weeks from 5 October, Wed–sat, 4pm un­til late. A high standard of dress is re­quired.

Clock­wise from left Shizuoka Press and Broad­cast­ing Cen­ter; Tokyo Big Sight, o cially known as the Tokyo In­ter­na­tional Ex­hi­bi­tion Cen­tre; The Asahi Beer Hall, aka the Golden Flame, de­signed by Philippe Starck.

In a city of 1.4 mil­lion peo­ple, there’s def­i­nitely no short­age of things to do – but with longer days and warmer weather, we’re also start­ing to dream of ad­ven­tures fur­ther afield. Lo­ca­tions like Tu­tukakˉ a,ˉ Great Barrier Is­land, Matakana, Wai­heke Is­land, Raglan and Coro­man­del are all just short trips from the city; all of them make for sim­ple week­end ex­cur­sions where just two days can feel like a far longer restora­tive break. From laz­ing un­der poˉhutukawa trees on the beach to wild walk­ing tracks and dance par­ties, here are our guides to six sen­sa­tional es­capes, where peo­ple in the know tell us what’s good to eat, drink and do.

Great Barrier Is­land

Lance and Ni­cola Herbst on the big is­land’s big at­trac­tions – walks, surf beaches and spots to stay

Ar­chi­tects Lance and Ni­cola Herbst got to know Great Barrier Is­land be­fore they got to know New Zealand – a stay there in the late 1990s was cru­cial in con­vinc­ing them to move from South Africa to Auck­land. They now visit the is­land reg­u­larly to stay at their sim­ple bach on Med­lands Beach.

Where to eat

Eat­ing out on Great Barrier of­ten in­volves catch­ing fish and cook­ing it at our place or a friend’s. But if you’re look­ing to buy a meal, My Fat Puku (pre­vi­ously known as Claris Texas, 129 Hec­tor Sanderson Rd) in Claris is un­der new own­er­ship and the food is good. Or get a burger at Swal­low (Main Rd, Claris). Break­fast at Pah Beach Cafe in Tryphena (82 Blackwell Drv) is rec­om­mended, es­pe­cially when the norther­lies are blow­ing.

Where to drink

Any bach with a view of the ocean is a good bet. The is­land’s a fairly so­cial place. The Cur­rach ( 78 Blackwell Drv, Tryphena) is worth a look, or the golf club on cer­tain nights – and the Claris and Tryphena Clubs can be a fun night out.

Where to stay

The best way to stay on Great Barrier is to book a bach – there’s a ded­i­cated web­site, is­landac­com­mo­da­tion.co.nz (a cou­ple of baches we de­signed are avail­able on it for rent). The camp­ground on Kaitoke Beach is sen­sa­tional, as are all the DOC camp­grounds around the is­land.

Best walks

Our favourite is the walk along the coast from Okiwi to Harataonga. Stop in at the vis­i­tor in­for­ma­tion booth at the air­port when you ar­rive, as they have maps of the DOC walks.

Best beaches

The east coast beaches are the surf beaches. It’s good to start south and move up: Med­lands, Kaitoke, Awana, Harataonga, Okiwi. The west coast beaches are shal­low bays with that per­fect colour con­trast in sum­mer be­tween aqua­ma­rine wa­ter and pōhutukawa red – Tryphena Bay and Okupu are both worth a visit.

Best day trips

Char­ter a boat to fish for king­fish, or cir­cum­nav­i­gate the is­land. You can hire kayaks or pad­dle­boards in Whanga­para­para and cruise the har­bour.

Best way to get there

It’s fastest to fly – Barrier Air and Fly My Sky both do reg­u­lar flights from Auck­land Air­port and the North Shore. The only al­ter­na­tive is the Sealink car ferry.

Best is­land ac­tiv­i­ties

Surf and fish and dive and walk – and re­lax.

Coro­man­del

A tour of the penin­sula’s best places to eat, drink and swim with Matt Seph­ton and Caitlin Moloney

Matt Seph­ton, free­lance au­dio en­gi­neer and owner of Coro Sonic Lab, and Caitlin Moloney, a ce­ramic artist (view her work as part of the Coro­man­del Open Stu­dios Arts Tour 7–14 Oct), live in Coro­man­del Town. Epic stormy win­ters and boom­ing sum­mers filled with friends, mu­sic and beach vis­its make Coro a great place to live, they say.

Where to eat

Wharf Road Cafe (24 Wharf Rd) or the Driv­ing Creek Cafe (180 Driv­ing Creek Rd). Driv­ing Creek Cafe’s at­mos­phere is re­laxed with a lush out­side area. The cof­fee is re­ally good and so is the haloumi stack.

Where to drink

Luke’s Kitchen in Kuao­tunu (20 Black Jack Rd) for lo­cal craft beer and wood-fired pizza. It’s right near the beach – per­fect for a post-surf feed. They put on a lot of live mu­sic in sum­mer too.

Where to stay

For a lux­u­ri­ous week­end away, The Coro­man­del Tree­house (480 Driv­ing Creek Rd) or Driv­ing Creek Vil­las (21A Colville Rd). For lower bud­get places, Long Bay Motor Camp (3200 Long Bay Rd) is a favourite; you can camp right by the ocean.

Where to lis­ten to live mu­sic

The Coroglen Tav­ern (1937 Tairua Whi­tianga Rd) puts on big acts around New Year’s. At Wharf Road Cafe, there is a monthly DJ line-up. We also host the an­nual Coro Sum­mer Fest (Sat 13 Jan) at our prop­erty – a to­tally awe­some af­ter­noon and evening of pic­nics, games, live mu­sic and bare­foot danc­ing.

Best beaches

New Chum – most peo­ple only see it in the sum­mer, all golden and per­fect, but in the mid­dle of a win­ter storm the place is epic, and well worth the ad­ven­ture. Lit­tle Bay, fur­ther north, is a rel­a­tively shel­tered beach with good snorkelling and big old pōhutukawa trees to laze un­der. Closer to home, we love Golden Bay.

Best day trips

Waikawau and Lit­tle Bay. Hot Wa­ter Beach is fun, al­though these days it gets re­ally crowded! The best time is low tide at night time with a full moon in the mid­dle of win­ter – then you might have a hot pool to your­self. Our favourite day trip is over to New Chums, Kuao­tunu or Otama for a surf, fol­lowed by pizza and beer at Luke’s Kitchen.

Best walks

Cas­tle Rock along the fa­mous (or in­fa­mous) 309 Road has fab­u­lous views. Freshen up after by leap­ing off into the Wa­iau Falls.

Hid­den gems

Ōa­maru Bay is one of our favourite places to swim and is so in­cred­i­bly beau­ti­ful. Also, Wharf Road Cafe’s Sun­day DJ ses­sions with happy party peo­ple, and Driv­ing Creek Rail­way and Pot­ter­ies.

North­land’s east coast

Leonie Ropiha has some hot sea­side picks

Leonie Ropiha, from Ngun­guru on the Tu­tukākā Coast, shares her high­lights from Whāngārei and its gor­geous sur­rounds.

Where to eat

Sch­nappa Rock (1 Ma­rina Rd, Tu­tukaka). My go-to is the kokoda (raw mar­i­nated fish)! I rely on Nec­tar Cafe (88 Bank St, Whāngārei) for a nu­tri­tious break­fast. The Fat Camel (12 Qual­ity St, Whāngārei) is one of the best eater­ies for tra­di­tional Mid­dle East­ern food. For a more low-key din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence, noth­ing beats fish and chips from Ngun­guru Take­aways (1977 Ngun­guru Rd). Eat them sit­ting by the side of the es­tu­ary; it’s a bit of a tra­di­tion!

Where to drink

Sch­nappa Rock, again, is good. There is plenty of out­door seat­ing, it has an ex­ten­sive wine list and mean cock­tails. Or The But­ter Fac­tory (8 But­ter Fac­tory Ln, Whāngārei) for a quiet af­ter­noon drink and live mu­sic.

Where to lis­ten to mu­sic

Mc­mor­ris­sey’s Ir­ish Pub ( 7 Vine St, Whāngārei) al­ways has a band rock­ing out! The pun­ters aren’t afraid of a good dance. Drink 100 pints of Guin­ness here and get your name on the wall of fame!

Where to stay

Pa­cific Ren­dezvous ( 73 Mo­tel Rd, Tu­tukaka). It’s a lit­tle pricey, but it has its own pri­vate beach and looks out to the Poor Knights Is­lands – it’s ab­so­lute bliss. The Bay of Is­lands Hol­i­day Park (678 Puke­t­ona Rd, Pai­hia) is a great spot, or camp beach­side at Mo­tu­tara Farm (42 Rock­ell Rd, Whananaki).

Best walks

The Tu­tukākā Light­house path. I have walked this a mil­lion times and never get sick of the views. Pack a pic­nic and sit right on the edge of the hill­top over­look­ing the ocean.

Best beaches

Mat­apōuri Bay is a time­less clas­sic. This white-sand beach gets pretty busy dur­ing sum­mer but don’t let that spoil your day. Pa­cific Bay is al­most never busy and is good for pic­nick­ing and kayak­ing.

Best day trips

Pai­hia is a cute lit­tle coastal town. Drive fur­ther to Wai­tangi where you can ab­sorb some of New Zealand’s most im­por­tant po­lit­i­cal his­tory.

Favourite week­end ac­tiv­ity

For good gelato, we head fur­ther south to Char­lies Gelato Gar­den in Matakana (17 Sharp Rd) and check out the Matakana Farm­ers Mar­ket (2 Matakana Val­ley Rd) while we’re there.

Hid­den gems

Mer­maid pools, al­though that’s too top-se­cret to share. You’ll have to do your own re­search.

Raglan

Elle Farr adores the Waikato’s best get­away spot

Self-de­scribed free-spirit Elle Farr splits her time be­tween study­ing in Welling­ton and her fam­ily home in Raglan. It’s her cre­ative play­ground – from sculpt­ing and paint­ing to out­door ad­ven­tur­ing and work­ing as a wait­ress and barista, Raglan’s her sum­mer fling.

Where to eat

There’s ev­ery­thing from sushi at Aloha Sushi (4A Wal­lis St) to chur­ros and açai at the Raglan Cruis­ers Food Truck (5 Poko­hui Ave). For lunch, try Rock-it (248 Wainui Rd). Head to Raglan Food De­part­ment (45 Wainui Rd) for pizza and a straw­berry and basil gelato. There are so many good lit­tle nooks for din­ner; The Wharf Kitchen and Bar (43 Rose St) is a favourite. I may be a lit­tle bi­ased as I work there, but I’m not ly­ing when I say peo­ple rave about the food!

Where to drink

Raglan Roast (9 Bow St). I think 99 per­cent of Raglan’s cof­fee ad­dic­tion is fu­elled by these guys, but we ain’t com­plain­ing. Wher­ever you are, or­der a beer by the new Raglan Brew­ing Co!

Where to lis­ten to mu­sic

The Yot Club (9 Bow St) has been a mas­sive part of Raglan for decades. With a usu­ally rad sum­mer line-up, stick around for a Sun­day ses­sion – you ac­tu­ally can’t miss it.

Where to stay

Go crazy with Book­abach or Airbnb – about one third of houses in Raglan are per­ma­nently resided in. To meet peo­ple, go to eco re­treat Solscape (611 Wainui Rd), Kar­ioi Lodge (5B Whaanga Rd) and Raglan Back­pack­ers (6 Wi Neera St).

Best walks

The Bryant Memo­rial Re­serve tracks or head to the wild Te Toto Gorge. A must-do hike is Raglan’s ‘Sleep­ing Lady’ – Mount Kar­ioi. This walk is su­per re­ward­ing and has a view to match.

Best beaches

Ngarunui Beach, the main swim­ming spot. For surf­ing, Manu Bay or Whale Bay. Go to the es­tu­ary for an obligatory Whāin­garoa bridge jump. A more se­cret spot is a lit­tle cove be­yond the air­field, hid­ing around the cor­ner from the camp­grounds. It’s best to go at high tide.

Best day trip

Rua­puke Beach – it’s got that wild west coast feel with a sweet-as mo­tor­camp. If you’re ve­hi­cle­less and care­free, grab some kayaks from Raglan Back­pack­ers or Raglan Kayak (Bow St Jetty). It’s re­ally the only way to see the beaches on the op­po­site side of the har­bour, and cruise into the small caves and pas­sage­ways.

Hid­den gems

Art! Go see Three Lit­tle Birds (5 Bow St), The Mon­ster Com­pany (58 Wal­lis St) or the Denise Fort Gallery ( 7 Wainui Rd). Check out what’s go­ing on at Ahoy (11 Bankart St) or Jet Col­lec­tive (19A Bow St).

Wai­heke Is­land

Jo­dine Bell on the best of is­land life

Jo­dine Bell, cre­ative direc­tor in Auck­land city by day and Wai­heke res­i­dent by night (and week­ends) makes the most of one of Auck­land’s most pop­u­lar get­aways.

Where to eat

Ca­sita Miro in One­tangi (3 Brown Rd) for great views, great food and wine, and great am­bi­ence. The staff are amaz­ing and it al­ways feels like a good time – what­ever the weather. Ask for a ta­ble near the win­dow.

Where to drink

Prac­ti­cally any­where, but the bal­cony at The Oys­ter Inn (124 Ocean­view Rd) is a par­tic­u­larly great spot in Oneroa.

Where to lis­ten to mu­sic

There are al­ways loads of great events on, but check the weekly line-up at Art­works Theatre (2 Korora Rd, Oneroa) or Malones Ir­ish Pub (6 Mi­ami Ave, Surf­dale) for lo­cal tal­ent.

Where to stay

There’s tons of great ac­com­mo­da­tion avail­able but for proper camp­ing I have it on great au­thor­ity that the Poukaraka Flats Camp­ground (339 Gor­dons Rd) at Rocky Bay, Whakanewha Re­gional Park is amaz­ing, if ba­sic in ameni­ties!

Best walks

I’m not a walker but there is an amaz­ing net­work of trails called Te Ara Hura which cov­ers most of the is­land. I have friends who are work­ing their way through the en­tire list. Pick up a brochure at the ferry ter­mi­nals or look on­line; it con­nects to most of the vine­yards too, so you can sip and sup along the way.

Beaches to visit

Lit­tle O (Lit­tle Oneroa) is a favourite (the fish and chips here are great) but there are lots of hid­den bays if you’re up for ex­plor­ing.

Best day trips

Make the drive out to Man O’ War Vine­yards ( 725 Man O’ War Bay Rd) for a full day of wine tast­ing, eat­ing, loung­ing on the lawn in the sun and swim­ming. It’s worth the long gravel roads.

Favourite week­end ac­tiv­ity

A morn­ing run down bush-clad roads to the beach at Rocky Bay for a swim, fol­lowed by cof­fee and scones (or a ba­con and egg pie) at the Rocky Bay Hall pop-up cafe (2 Glen Brook Rd, Omiha).

Hid­den gems

At The An­nex (10 Pu­tiki Rd, Os­tend) you’ll find the best cheese toasties, cof­fee, and lovely staff.

Matakana

Jessie Love shares Matakana’s best spots

Jessie Love, a wine rep and Matakana res­i­dent, shares her favourite places in the vil­lage, as well as the best of the sur­round­ing ar­eas.

Where to eat

My part­ner Riki and I start our week­end re­li­giously at Leigh Eats (18 Cum­ber­land St, Leigh). It has the best cof­fee, and while they say they’re the ‘pur­vey­ors of the best hang­over cure’, we think the food is pretty good on a clear head as well. Later, Smiths (Matakana Coun­try Park, 1151 Leigh Rd) for the cool staff and shar­ing plates.

Where to drink

The Sawmill Brew­ery (1004 Leigh Rd, Matakana) for a beer on the deck with a great view of Mount Tamahunga. We also love The Vin­try (2 Matakana Val­ley Rd, Matakana) for a glass of wine.

Where to lis­ten to mu­sic

Make a night of it with friends at the Leigh Sawmill Cafe (142 Pakiri Rd, Leigh) – it’s leg­endary for gigs. The Matakana Vil­lage Pub (11 Matakana Val­ley Rd) has DJS and mu­sic acts on the week­end, or on Satur­days, the Matakana Farm­ers Mar­ket (2 Matakana Val­ley Rd) nor­mally has a band to keep you en­ter­tained while you de­vour a white­bait frit­ter.

Where to stay

The camp­site at Whangateau Hol­i­day Park (559 Leigh Rd) is right on the wa­ter and a great low cost op­tion. If you’re in a cam­per­van, you can stay down on the beach at Mathesons Bay. Mahu­rangi, Tāwha­ranui and Scan­drett Re­gional Parks all have cot­tages that you can book.

Best walks

There’s a beau­ti­ful coastal walk around Ti Point. Park at the end of Ti Point Road and fol­low the gravel track and board­walk for views back across Omaha and over to Tāwha­ranui. Tāwha­ranui it­self is a must-visit.

Best beaches

Omaha, Tāwha­ranui, Scan­drett Re­gional Park, Mahu­rangi. Pakiri is rugged but in­cred­i­bly beau­ti­ful. Mathesons Bay is shel­tered if you want a leisurely swim or a pon­toon to throw your­self off.

Best day trips

Man­gawhai has an­other magic beach, some great walks and an ex­cel­lent pub. Kawau Is­land is easy to get to from Snells Beach and of­fers a bit of his­tory. And if it’s fish (view­ing) you are after, then go for Goat Is­land.

Hid­den gems

There’s a river tour on a flat-bot­tom barge where you get to learn about the his­tory of the Matakana River and na­tive bush (Matakana River Tours). Also, Matakana Cin­ema (2 Matakana Val­ley Rd) – the cin­ema it­self is amaz­ing.

Med­lands Beach and ca­bana. 2. Lance and Ni­cola Herbst. 3. Dol­phin Bay. 4. Pah Beach in Tryphena Har­bour. 5. A mag­nif­i­cent view over Whangapoua Beach and es­tu­ary. 6. One of two gi­ant pōhutukawa on Med­lands Beach in bloom. 7. The Herb­sts’ bach, with as­sisted swim­ming de­vice out­side.

Don’t for­get your float­ies

De­li­cious post-surf eats

1. Luke’s Kitchen. 2. Caitlin, Matt and their dog Ri­ley. 3. Whangapoua Beach look­ing to­wards New Chum Beach. 4. Driv­ing Creek Cafe. 5. Coro Sum­mer Fest. 6. Coast Road. 7. Driv­ing Creek Rail­way.

A fam­i­lyfriendly ac­tiv­ity

A chill cafe with good cof­fee

A se­cret swim­ming spot The place to see and be seen

1. Leonie at Mat­apōuri Bay. 2. Mer­maid pools. 3. Pai­hia. 4. Sch­nappa Rock. 5. Mat­apōuri Bay. 6. Tu­tu­akākā Light­house path. 7. Nec­tar Cafe. 8. The But­ter Fac­tory.

1. Elle Farr. 2. Three Lit­tle Birds gallery. 3. Bow Street, the main street of Raglan. 4. Raglan Roast. 5. The steps down to Whale Bay. 6. Whale Bay. 7. Gelato at the Raglan Food De­part­ment. 8. The Yot Club.

Fuel for the day

Get down with gelato

1. Lit­tle Oneroa Beach. 2. Rocky Bay bush. 3. En route to Man O’war win­ery. 4. A sunny day at Man O’war win­ery. 5. The An­nex cafe. 6. A cheese toastie from An­nex. 7. Ca­sita Miro. 8. Jo­dine Bell. 9. The Rocky Bay Hall pop-up cafe.

Clas­sic New Zealand bak­ing

Tapas and fine wine

Day trip to Man O’war Bay

A must-visit beach

Brews and views

1. Jessie Love. 2. Omaha. 3. Smiths bar and res­tau­rant. 4. Tāwha­ranui Beach. 5. Leigh Eats. 6. Sawmill Brew­ery. 7. Mathesons Bay. 8. Leigh Sawmill Cafe. 9. Matakana Cin­ema.

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