food with sam mannering
It may be autumn, but gluts of apples and tomatoes left over from summer remain. Time to get preserving.
Iknow that usually I have just a passing resemblance to a squirrel, but come autumn, it’s a different matter: I’m full hoarder, storing for winter. I’ve been wanting to dedicate an entire article to chutney and now is the time to bottle, pickle and jar while we still have gluts of apples, tomatoes, pears and so on. There is something about pulling a jar of relish off the shelf that was made six months ago; perhaps it’s about as much of the hunter gatherer left in me, but I always find it incredibly, heartwarmingly satisfying. Here are two recipes that mean rather a lot to me and I hope you give them a go.
This recipe comes from my friends Peter and Annabel in Canterbury – I’ve adapted it slightly but the essence of it remains the same. You may want to add fresh chilli instead of powder, but be wary of the kick. Substitute pears for apples if you fancy, and use your judgement on the seasoning; you may want to add a little more vinegar or spice depending on your preference.
PETER’S SPICY APPLE CHUTNEY
Prep time: 20 mins Cook time: 2 hours Makes: about 8 x 400g jars 2.5kg apples, cored and sliced 2 x 400g tins tomatoes 500g onions, finely chopped 250g raisins 150ml apple cider vinegar 1kg brown sugar 1 tbsp ground ginger 2 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tbsp mustard powder 1 tsp chilli powder 250ml water 2 tbsp salt 1 tbsp freshly cracked black pepper Combine all ingredients in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over a moderate heat, then reduce the heat right down and leave to simmer, stirring occasionally, for 1½-2 hours. By now the apple would have broken down somewhat and the mixture would have thickened.
Check the seasoning, transfer to hot sterilised jars and seal while still hot.