TURN TOMATO DREAMS TO RE­AL­ITY

Build a por­ta­ble seedling shel­ter that will help you get a jump on spring.

Taranaki Daily News - Your Property Weekly - - Front Page -

MA­TE­RI­ALS

Legs: 3.2m of 45mm x 45mm treated dressed pine

Struts: 3.5m of 45mm x 20mm treated pine

Slats: 13m of 75mm x 25mm treated dressed pine

Bat­tens: 6.5m of 25mm x 25mm treated pine, 1 sheet 12mm treated ply, 8g x 32mm & 8g x 40mm stain­less steel screws, wood glue Sk­il­saw, drop saw & jig saw, 1 sheet of clear poly­car­bon­ate 900mm x 600mm x 3mm clear Liq­uid Nails 2 x 65mm hinges, 6g x 12mm and 7g x 25mm screws

Wheels: 2 x 100mm 2 x bolts x 90mm, 4 x wash­ers and 2 x Ny­loc nuts ham­mer & chisel

CUT­TING LIST

Pot­ting ta­ble Legs 4 x 800mm Struts 4 x 500mm, 4 x 800mm Slats 11 x 590mm & 7 x 800mm Cold frame 1 x floor: 725mm x 435mm 2 x sides: 550 x 345mm (back) & 150mm (front) 1 x back: 725 x 350mm 1 x front: 750 x 150mm Lid 780mm x 600mm

Cost of ma­te­ri­als: about $360

STEP-BY-STEP IN­STRUC­TIONS

(see pic­ture gallery)

1. Us­ing the 40mm screws, drill and coun­ter­sink all screw holes. Mark up the 4 legs 200mm from the bot­tom and join two pairs to­gether with struts. Set the strut 20mm from the outer edge. Glue and screw. Re­peat at the top of the legs.

2. Join the sides with the shorter struts with a sin­gle cen­tral screw.

3. At­tach the lower slats with 2 screws.

4. At­tach the top edge bat­tens by glu­ing and screw­ing through the bot­tom of each end slat into the batten. At­tach the up­per ta­ble slats. Add the back edge batten. Sand, un­der­coat and paint the ta­ble. I used polyurethane on the slats.

5. Cut out, sand, un­der­coat and paint the han­dles then glue and screw them just be­low the top ta­ble struts at one end of the ta­ble. At the op­po­site end mark the po­si­tion of the wheels. Drill holes for each, shorten the leg by 25mm and at­tach the wheels us­ing bolts with Ny­loc nuts.

6. Us­ing the 32mm screws, at­tach a batten from un­der­neath to the edges of the base. Us­ing the Sk­il­saw cut a 17° an­gle to the top edge of the front and back pan­els. At­tach bat­tens to the edges, match­ing the an­gles, and set up 25mm from the bot­tom edge to al­low for the base batten. Cut a 17° an­gle to the top back batten and at­tach. At­tach the front and back to the base. At­tach the sides.

7. Cut the lid from the ply sheet. Cut out the cen­tre with the jig saw leav­ing a 50mm edge each side and 40mm top and bot­tom. Cut the poly­car­bon­ate sheet to size. Mark po­si­tion, cut a nar­row re­cess and at­tach the hinges. Paint then, when dry, run a gen­er­ous bead of Liq­uid Nails around the top sur­face and press the poly­car­bon­ate sheet into po­si­tion. Ap­ply pres­sure and al­low to dry. At­tach the hinges to the back of the cold frame.

8. Fill, sand and un­der­coat and ap­ply a top coat of Re­sene Lum­ber sider. I used ‘Lim­er­ick’ and ‘White’.

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