An alpine adventure playground
St Arnaud is a happy hunting ground for adventurers with Lake Rotoiti fringed by rugged and beautiful countryside. explores some of the attactions of this alpine wonderland.
St Arnaud has something for everyone
For the past few months the township of St Arnaud has been in the news a fair bit. One reason is that it is now on the main route for driving between Christchurch and Picton.
Before the earthquake, St Arnaud may have seen 40 trucks per day, whereas in the weeks leading up to Christmas there was as many as 1000.
Most people are on their way somewhere else so don’t stop. But those in the top of the south know that St Arnaud is the gateway to the Nelson Lakes National Park and is the heart of Tasman’s winter playground.
The township was originally called Rotoiti, after the lake it sits on the edge of, but was renamed in 1921 due to confusion with Lake Rotoiti near Rotorua. Apparently, a lot of mail was sent to the wrong village.
It is likely the town is named after a Jacques Leroy de Saint Arnaud, a French commander-inchief during the Crimean War. Despite being formally gazetted nearly 70 years ago, some locals are still opposed to the name change.
The village comprises a store, petrol station and a caferestaurant. Accommodation-wise there is the Alpine Lodge, motels, baches and two DOC campgrounds – Kerr Bay and West Bay.
The biggest drawcard for me is that St Arnaud is the gateway to the Nelson Lakes National Park – just over 1000 km2 that includes two large lakes (Rotoiti and Rotoroa), several major valleys and mountain ranges. St Arnaud is an ideal base for tramping, fishing, skiing, kayaking or boating. A little bit of something for everyone.
I have had many great tramps here, the first being the 80km Sabine-Travers Circuit that I com- pleted in my 20s. This week-long tramp takes in big valleys, deep gorges, dense beech forest and a high alpine pass. The most difficult thing about a tramp like this is carrying a large pack.
More recently I walked into Speargrass hut with my son and friend. This is a relatively easy three-hour walk from Mt Robert carpark and is a perfect first tramp.
On my ‘to do’ list is an overnight tramp to Mt Angelus (1650m). I have planned this several times, but the weather has always let me down. Again, the start point is Mt Robert carpark. The wellmarked route is a good six to eight hours of climbing to an alpine environment. The newish hut has 28 beds and, due to its popularity, bookings are essential.
If walking is not your thing, a water taxi service operates from a jetty at the northern end of Lake Rotoiti, near the DOC campsite at Kerr Bay. This quickly gets you into the tranquillity of Nelson Lakes National Park’s beech forest.
If you would rather read about nature than be in it, the DOC visitor centre at St Arnaud is a must visit. If your preference is to eat nature, then both lakes are known for their brown trout. If your preference is skiing, then wait for winter, as the nearby Rainbow Ski Field is generally open from June to October.
Finally, if none of the above appeal, maybe a day kayaking or boating will. Kayaks can be easily launched at Kerr Bay. Lake Rotoiti provides a sheltered, and reasonably safe playground for exploring. Probably the only time to avoid the lake when in your kayak is the first weekend on March when it is crowded with boating enthusiasts attending the Antique and Classic Boat Show. The 18th Show is 4-5 March 2017.
elizabeth@greenawy.co.nz