here, but interpretative displays bring the site to life. Now we follow the Aegean coast south, with Greek islands lying offshore. Near modern Bergama, ancient Pergamum (or Pergamon) was once renowned for its great library and as a centre of excellence in medicine.
Arguably Ephesus is the bestpreserved Roman city in the Mediterranean, even bettering Rome itself.
Here St John is believed to have composed his Gospel, and to lie buried in nearby Selcuk; the Virgin Mary to have ended her days living in amountaintop cottage.
Tourists and pilgrims alike arrive in droves, yet the people of Selcuk remain unfailingly hospitable and their town, with its jumble of Roman and Islamic ruins, is well worth a day or two.
Directly inland lie the natural wonders of Pamukkale, with its gleaming travertine terraces of mineral calcium.
Here the Romans built the spa town called Hierapolis: tourists have relaxed in Turkey for 2000 years.
No specific health concerns exist in western Turkey.
New Zealand citizens do not need a visa (Australians must buy a visa on arrival, typically costing US$20 or 15 euros).
After years of chaotic inflation, the Turkish lira is now stable, but hotels usually quote rates in euros. Prices are a little lower than in euro-zone countries.
Istanbul’s Ataturk International Airport lies west of the city and is connected to subway and light rail transport, although shuttle buses and taxis are relatively inexpensive. Used by regional and domestic carriers, Sabiha Gokcen Airport is located on the Asian shore to the east.
Trafalgar Tours’ nine-day highlights of Turkey with Anzac Day tour takes in Istanbul, Anzac Cove, Lone Pine, Chunuk Bair, Troy, Pergamon, Ephesus, Pamukkale, Heriapolis and Bursa; visit trafalgar.com/nz
Tom Brosnahan, veteran guidebook author, operates a Turkish travel planner website at turkeytravelplanner.com
Guarding the Dardanelles: The slogan on the hillside above Eceabat, overlooking the Dardanelles Strait, is an extract from a poemby Necmettin Halil Onan. It translates as:
Parade route: Curetes St – also known as the Embolos – Ephesus, runs diagonally from the State Agora, past the Slope Houses, to the Library of Celsus. It was an important processional route in the cult of Artemis.