How to prune roses
In winter it certainly is hard to remember how breathtakingly beautiful roses are, but be assured they are simply sitting dormant ready to be reign as the queen of the garden once more come the warmer weather.
Pruning at the end of the colder weather is vital for a good summer flowering but how can I time my rose pruning absolutely right?
Those of us in colder climes in North Otago – where there may be late frosts – can delay pruning to Mid-August to prevent damage to new growth.
Ideally this is when the frosts have finished.
Don’t be tempted to prune your roses too early.
They will start shooting, and this new growth may be hit by frosts.
The timing of the first flush of blooms in spring is very much controlled by the weather.
Cooler temperatures, particularly at night, will slow down growth and delay flowering, though usually by not much more than a couple of weeks. the pruning.
Hybrid Teas, for instance, appreciate hard pruning where up to two-thirds of growth is removed.
Roses with twiggy, airy growth, such as the China roses, need only light pruning, which involves removing one-third of the growth.
Pruning climbers can be a bit of a nightmare unless they are trained from the very beginning.
To do this, it is important to bend the strong young canes to fan out from the base so they are as near horizontal as possible.
This will cause the plant to send up flowering shoots all along the canes instead of just at the top.
Elbow to hand is a rough guide for spacing between the horizontal canes.
Pruning a climber consists of shortening the flowering side shoots to three or four growth buds each year and removing old, unprofitable canes from the base as the plant ages.
Immediately after pruning is a good time to give the roses a final copper and oil spray to kill any fungi that may still be alive. Don’t rush in to prune too early when late frosts can damage new growth.