Aptly named

It’s in the mid­dle of two rock places, pos­si­bly hard

Weekend Herald - Canvas - - BRUNCH -


Down the Sy­monds St end of K Rd, Be­tween is ap­pro­pri­ately named-flanked by the Rock Shop, nes­tled be­tween its DRUMS and ACOUS­TIC GUI­TARS. The in­side is clas­sic Auck­land cafe — slightly in­dus­trial, ex­posed pip­ing and all the rest, noth­ing too spe­cial but noth­ing wrong with it ei­ther.


“If you don’t like eggs you’re kind of screwed,” my friend aptly notes as we pe­ruse the menu. Of the two lit­tle pages of menu ded­i­cated to brunch food, a solid 75 per cent is egg-based, start­ing with a long make-your-own-eggs-on-toast list (start­ing at $9.50) fol­lowed by var­i­ous it­er­a­tions of eggs bene­dict ($18$20 if you spring for sal­mon). Luck­ily, I love eggs. I chose the Spe­cial BB ($23), Be­tween’s ver­sion of a big brekkie with chorizo, ba­con, a hash brown, toast of your choice with herbed but­ter, eggs how you like, tomato, rel­ish and mush­room. When the wait­ress brings it over it sounds like she’s say­ing “one spe­cial baby”. Yeah, that’s me. Some­thing I of­ten find when I or­der a big brekkie is that as much as I en­joy all the bits, they don’t cre­ate a whole more than the sum of those parts. But it’s not Be­tween’s fault I never learn my les­son, and all their parts were per­fectly well ex­e­cuted. The chorizo was par­tic­u­larly good, with a smoky, spicy flavour and a nice crispy skin. My friend had fried eggs, sunny side up, on toast with av­o­cado and a hash brown ($18); he de­clared the eggs per­fectly cooked. Our cof­fees were fine but my flat white ($4.50) needed to be hot­ter.


Be­tween’s Face­book pres­ence is im­me­di­ately en­dear­ing. One post shows two staff mem­bers look­ing straight down the camera with twin dead­pan ex­pres­sions, one of them cradling an enor­mous, de­formed daikon radish, which looks like a very pale, freaky baby. An­other is a slow- mo video of a guy flip­ping milk so it lands right- way- up on the counter — again with the dead­pan thou­sand- yard- stare. The cafe scene in Auck­land can feel un­bear­ably earnest and twee at times so it was nice to see a team of staff not tak­ing them­selves too se­ri­ously. In the cafe it­self, the crew were all im­pec­ca­bly dressed and friendly, but there’s no ta­ble ser­vice — my pet peeve at brunch spots ( I know how that makes me sound but I re­ally do hate it). Luck­ily we got in be­fore the rush, about 10am, and I was able to go right up and or­der with­out wait­ing in line. TESS NICHOL

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