Pass the acid test with versatile in-season citrus
In praise of lemons
Whenever you taste a dish and think it tastes a bit flat or dull, chances are it’s either salt or acid that’s missing. Think about it — a spoonful of tangy yoghurt over Moroccan kebabs, a squeeze of lemon juice over a crispy fish fillet, creme fraiche dolloped over a wedge of apple tart, black vinegar on a shanghai dumpling, lime over a taco, a teaspoon or two of sherry vinegar in a rich beef stew, or rice vinegar tossed through sushi rice — it’s the acid that gives each of these dishes a zing that is so pleasing on the palate.
Every culture has its own repertoire of preferred acids, be they wine, beer, verjuice, cider, tamarind, cultured dairy foods, such as yoghurt and buttermilk, tangy cheeses, citrus and a world of different vinegars. Tangy fruits, such as pineapple and passionfruit, also deliver acid tones, as do tomatoes and pickles.
Out of this vast repertoire of acid flavours, lemons are probably the one ingredient I couldn’t cook without. It’s not just the clean, bright jolt of freshness that their juice delivers, but also their fragrant zest, which imparts an appealing depth and tone to dishes both sweet and savoury, a taste that is less about acid and more about giving a dish a layered depth.
To retain the bright freshness of lemon juice, always add it at the last minute, rather than while a dish is cooking. When it comes to grating the zest, using a microplane ensures you don’t cut into the bitter pith that sits just under the skin. Don’t be tempted to grate a whole lot of zest for later use, as the volatile oils will disappear into the air.
I’ll often put lemon zest into a pesto, but not the juice, so that it will stay fresh and green. Lemon juice, along with other acids, takes the verdant colour out of green vegetables and herbs and quickly turns them a dull, sad brown. On the other hand, the colour of red vegetables is enhanced by acid, so dishes made with beetroot, red cabbage or tomatoes become more vivid with its addition.
Lemon pith can be bitter, especially in varieties other than wildly juicy Meyer lemon. The Meyer is my favourite lemon variety — its acidity is gentler than other lemons, and it’s a softer fruit that’s easier to squeeze.
Clever Mother Nature delivers these versatile fruits during the winter months, exactly when we need their burst of vitamin C in our diets, so now is the time to stir the juice into a lemon and honey drink to ward off winter ills.
Come midsummer, lemons will be hard to find, and we will have to rely on sprayed and waxed imports. Luckily, lemons and their juice freeze well. I often freeze lemon segments on trays then freeflow them into bags, or freeze the juice in ice-cube trays. On a hot summer’s day these stand in for both ice and lemons in a cooling gin and tonic. Why wait till summer?
LEMON HERB FRITTERS WITH GOAT’S CHEESE