THIS YEAR WATCHMAKERS ARE BET­TING BIG BUCKS ON GREEN

Muscat Daily - - FEATURES -

“Colour is back in a big way,” says Matthias Breschan, chief ex­ec­u­tive of­fi­cer of in­no­va­tive Swiss watch­maker Rado. Af­ter a few years of push­ing blue watch faces, brands have been seek­ing greener pas­tures. Deep-emer­ald di­als, bezels, cases, and even bands are rolling out of the work­shops of a di­verse va­ri­ety of com­pa­nies. “We’re see­ing a lot of de­mand for watches with green el­e­ments,” Breschan says. His com­pany of­fers its strik­ing ce­ramic True Thin­line models in seven colours; green is the sec­ond-best seller, af­ter blue.

Rado calls its shade pol­ished green. “Se­lect­ing the right hue is crit­i­cal,” Breschan says. “For us it was im­por­tant to se­lect a sub­tle green colour that looks both regal - think Bri­tish rac­ing green- and goes well with dif­fer­ent styles.” It’s com­mon to hear Breschan and other watchmakers re­fer to rac­ing green, an in­tense tint cus­tom­ary among UK pro­fes­sional mo­tor sports com­peti­tors be­fore the spon­sor­ship era. The worlds of clas­sic cars and her­itage watches are in­ter­twined; their fan bases over­lap, and watch de­sign­ers of­ten chan­nel vin­tage-car aes­thet­ics. It’s a savvy play to woo key con­nois­seurs with a wrist­watch re­call­ing the ver­dant blur of a 1950s Tri­umph coupe, for in­stance. The dom­i­nant tone for green watches is em­i­nently jewel-like. Ad­mire, for ex­am­ple, Pi­aget’s Alti­plano 40mm, in­spired by mala­chite and other stone di­als that were a great suc­cess for the house in the 1960s.

But the hue also takes a trip through en­chanted woods. Watch­maker Carl F Bucherer calls its shade - sim­i­lar to the conifers near its head­quar­ters in Lucerne, Switzer­land - pine green.

The ap­peal of Is­lamic green hasn’t gone un­no­ticed by watchmakers, ei­ther. Seven months ago, IWC Schaffhausen re­leased a lim­ited-edi­tion green ver­sion of its Por­tugieser Au­to­matic called the Kuwait.

At Rolex, the ex­act shade of the colour changes from model to model, but it’s usu­ally light and soft, evok­ing baby greens or Granny Smith ap­ples, and right in line with Pan­tone LLC’s 2017 colour of the year, “green­ery,” a zesty yel­low-tinged tone. In any case, Rolex makes it a point to have only one green watch in each col­lec­tion - and there­fore it just calls it green, with­out a mod­i­fier.

Get­ting the colour right isn't easy. “It’s an ex­er­cise in trial and er­ror,” says Daniel Caudill, cre­ative direc­tor, Shi­nola, speak­ing of the devel­op­ment of his for­est green.

The Detroit com­pany has been work­ing to­ward this pre­cise shade since a bil­liard­green Run­well was in­tro­duced to the col­lec­tion in 2013, help­ing es­tab­lish the brand’s fresh sen­si­bil­ity. “This is a green that we have been per­fect­ing since our launch, ad­ding bits of blue, bits of yel­low, bits of black, and tweak­ing it un­til we achieved the right colour.”

For Caudill, a colour­ful dial “is a way for the wearer to rep­re­sent his per­son­al­ity - es­pe­cially if there is an of­fice dress code.”

And what does green say about said work per­son­al­ity? “Some peo­ple may re­spond to the sym­bol­ism of the colour,” says JeanBernard Forot, Pi­aget’s jew­ellery mar­ket­ing direc­tor. “It’s known to be a re­lax­ing colour. Above all, it’s a sym­bol of hope.”

To some it con­jures the magic of na­ture. Others en­joy its as­so­ci­a­tions with pro­gres­sive pol­i­tics. Or leisure-class lawn sports. For most, though, green will al­ways be the colour of money.

Source: Bul­gari

Bul­gari Ser­penti, with a curved 18carat pink gold case. Price; US$7,400

(Bloomberg)

Clock­wise from top-left: Shi­nola Bedrock, the brand’s first dress watch (US$750); Rado True Thin­line, with a unique green bracelet (US$2,100); Rolex Cos­mo­graph Day­tona in the brand’s sig­na­ture yel­low gold (US$34,650)

Im­age cour­tesy: Pi­aget)

Pi­aget Alti­plano ul­tra­slim watch in yel­low gold, (US$25,200). (

Im­age cour­tesy: Carl . Bucherer

Carl F Bucherer Manero Pow­erRe­serve, with a big date and small sec­onds (US$11,000)

(Im­age cour­tesy: Meis­terSinger)

Meis­terSinger Neo in Rens­ing green (US$1,350)

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