Af­ford­able Dim Sum with a Michelin Star

Cebu Daily News - - LIFE -

THE PRES­TI­GIOUS Michelin Star is a hall­mark of fine din­ing, an in­ter­na­tional rat­ing sys­tem used by Paris-based Michelin Guide to grade restau­rants on their qual­ity. It is the high­est form of recog­ni­tion in the culi­nary world. Only fine din­ing and ex­pen­sive restau­rants dom­i­nate the list. Star re­cip­i­ents gain im­mense pres­tige and ex­po­sure along with honor. So din­ing in a Michelin-starred res­tau­rant can be very elu­sive and ex­pen­sive. In fact, Manila does not have a Michelin Guide yet or a Michelin-starred res­tau­rant, and the clos­est one can get into are restau­rants owned by Miche­lin­starred chefs.

Tim Ho Wan, Hongkong’s fa­mous Miche­lin­starred dim sum res­tau­rant re­cently opened its 7th branch in the coun­try in SM Sea­side City Cebu, fran­chised by Foodee Global Con­cepts, one of Manila’s largest multi-brand food groups. Its pres­i­dent/CEO Rikki Dee graced the oc­ca­sion. Since I have been en­joy­ing Tim Ho Wan at the Glo­ri­etta in Makati ev­ery time I flew to Manila, I was de­lighted to see the much-awaited open­ing of the ex­quis­ite Dim Sum in Cebu.

Tim Ho Wan is a culi­nary phe­nom­e­non and the chef be­hind it is Dim Sum mas­ter chef Mak Kwai Pui who be­gan learn­ing the in­tri­cate art of dim sum at the age of 15. He left the 3 Michelin-starred Lung King Heen Res­tau­rant in Hongkong’s Four Sea­sons Ho­tel and opened his 20-seater “hole-in-the-wall” eatery in Mongkok in 2009 where cus­tomers queued for 3 to 4 hours to get a ta­ble. In 2010, it earned a cov­eted star in the 2010 Hongkong & Ma­cau Michelin Guide and is now renowned for be­ing the most af­ford­able Michelin-starred res­tau­rant in the world. Its Michelin Guide in­clu­sion is un­prece­dented; break­ing the norm that good food need not be ex­pen­sive.

The res­tau­rant’s claim to fame, now world­fa­mous Baked Bun with BBQ Pork is a unique re­make of the steamed siopao with del­i­cately crusty, pas­try light, flaky not-so-thick dough filled with the good­ness of bar­be­cued pork (asado) with an en­tic­ing sweet and sa­vory good­ness. And it has to be eaten 15 min­utes af­ter it leaves the oven to en­joy the celebrity bun. To­gether with the other stel­lar dishes, Bean Curd Skin Roll with Pork & Shrimp, PanFried Radish Cake and Steamed Egg Cake, these Four Heav­enly Kings awaken palates to a new culi­nary sen­sa­tion. Ev­ery lit­tle dish, steamed or fried, bears wit­ness to the cook­ing phi­los­o­phy of Chef Mak Kawi Pui—fresh­ness of the in­gre­di­ents and proper tech­nique. And fresh­ness also means hand­made-to-or­der, not pre-steamed or re­heated. I rel­ished ev­ery bite of Prawn Dumpling, Steamed Spinach Dump­ing with Shrimp, Ver­mi­celli Roll Shrimp, Wasabi Salad Prawn Dumpling. Even the sim­ple Poached Fresh Sea­sonal Veg­etable driz­zled with sweet soy was ex­cit­ing.

More Can­tonese dim sum de­lights are of­fered, pop­u­lar items that never lose its ap­peal. The rice dishes are a meal in it­self—Chicken, Sausage & Mush­room, Rice with Beef & Fried Egg and Gluti­nous Rice wrapped in Lo­tus Leaf. The Congee with Lean Pork, Cen­tury Egg and Salted Egg just had the right thick con­sis­tency. And I al­ways wash down the ex­quis­ite good­ness of Tim Ho Wan dim sum with a healthy glass of Hot or Cold Bar­ley Wa­ter.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Philippines

© PressReader. All rights reserved.