VI KT OR, THE CUSTOM DENIM LINE, gets a top-to-bottom overhaul, from labelto COLORTODESIGN.
You can say it all started with the logo. After 14 years, designer Ino Caluza wanted to redesign the label of his premium denim brand Viktor. And it took a while— about a year, actually—from the time he broached the subject to his friend, Rick Gindap of the creative studio Design for Tomorrow, to finally producing the stitched (not printed) labels in Hong Kong. The rectangular tag now sports a quieter all-caps style: white letters on a field of tinted blue, which was inspired by the famous blue that artist Yves Klein invented. Ino mixed his original color, too.
But before that, there was a version, the fifth iteration, that the denim master approved, but then quickly changed his mind about. “It was not me because it was too edgy, and I’m not edgy,” the designer says. Viktor, after all, makes inimitable custom creations, deep-dyed in indigo and cut dangerously thin, that can only be described as slinky or sexy, not funky or weird. Had that zippy logo been presented years ago, he would have been all over it, but right now Ino is thinking about brand equity. “I want
people to know that the kind of luxury that we offer is not loud,” he says.
Ino points to the flowers, butterflies, and letters on back pockets, flourishes that some clients insisted on and the designer agreed upon because he was running a business. He doesn’t want to do that anymore. Viktor has grown up, and its designer is focusing on the craftsmanship, personalization, and exclusivity that earned the local company a spot in the closets of businessmen, politicians, actors, and the secretly rich.
What does this mean? A lot of pruning. The brand’s over 40 jean designs have been cut down to just five, but that’s the five best from the Viktor Original series. Ino wants you to subscribe to a more sophisticated approach to dressing: that a few solid pieces rather than a plethora of styles is better. Even if you stick to just one of the five styles, with different fabrics and silhouettes, he promises you will look good.
The updated look now includes full and fluid shapes with an emphasis on contrasting proportions. A recent trip to Paris was the inspiration. There were Muslim men wearing oversized but short jackets with traditional long robes. There were peacocks wearing loose parkas with super skinny jeans plus abbreviated skirts. The contrast—puffy jackets pushing out fluid robes—was, as he puts it, so beautiful.
To create the look, the designer is bringing back jackets, making the renewed Viktor a jean and jacket operation. “Before they were fitted and sharp. Now, it slopes down,” he describes.
One more thing: Fans of discontinued jeans, from the Premium or
Jacket, shirt, jeans by Viktor, Greenbelt 5; Papa Nui cap at Regiment, Legaspi Street, Makati; eyeglasses by Ray-Ban, Greenbelt 5
Jacket, T-shirt, jeans by Viktor, Greenbelt 5; sunglasses by Ray-Ban, Greenbelt 5; shoes by Dr. Martens, Glorietta 2
COLOR THEORY A REFRESHED LOGO ANCHORS THE VIKTOR REBRAND. THAT NEW BLUE, INSPIRED BY THE ICONIC YVES KLEIN COLOR, WAS MIXED BY THE DESIGNER HIMSELF .
REBEL YELL JACKETS ARE BACK, BUT THIS TIME, THEY’RE CUT ROOMY AND SHORT. PAIR WITH SLIM JEANS TO CREATE CONTRAST.