Show must go on as NY Fashion Week weathers ‘#MeToo’ storm

NEW YORK: New York Fashion Week kicks off the global Fall/Winter 2018 season on Friday (Manila time) fighting to stay relevant blighted by sexual harassment scandals, an industry in chaos, and designers jumping ship.

The sexual harassment watershed engulfing the United States and rocking the fashion industry has seen the Council of Fashion Designers of America unveil new guidelines in an attempt to clamp down on misconduct.

“We have zero tolerance for unsafe environments and strongly encourage everyone in our industry to report abuse in the workplace,” wrote CFDA chairman Diane von Furstenberg in a letter announcing the guidelines, which also raise awareness against eating disorders and advocate greater diversity.

Misconduct accusations have seen celebrated photographers Terry Richardson, Mario Testino and Bruce Weber barred from collaborating with and publisher Conde Nast.

But the Model Alliance has demanded “meaningful and lasting change,” saying “voluntary standards” without education, proper complaint mechanisms and independent enforcement “are not going to work.”

Marchesa, the label of Harvey Weinstein’s estranged wife Georgina Chapman, cancelled their Valentine’s Day show, still reeling from the fallout of his downfall over multiple allegations ranging from sexual harassment to rape, in favor of “an updated format.”

Added to the schedule is a #MeToo fashion show—named for the movement against sexual harassment— on Friday to raise awareness.

Meanwhile, Alexander Wang, the New York king of cool whose urban chic is so adored by off- duty models, is making his swansong before this summer ditching the traditional February-September calendar in favor of June-December.

“Why do something that’s not working?” Stephanie Horton, chief strategy officer at Alexander Wang told a recent industry event in New York. “The business model needs to change because the consumer has changed.”

Steven Kolb, president and CEO of the CFDA, predicts that other designers could follow suit.

Tommy Hilfiger is taking his see-now, buy-now fashion roadshow to Milan, Rihanna’s Fenty collaboration with Puma is taking a break, and rap superstar Kanye West chose to unveil his latest installment for urban sportswear brand Yeezy last week on Instagram, modeled by his wife Kim Kardashian.

British former Spice Girl Victoria Beckham is marking her last show in New York before celebrating her label’s 10th anniversary in London. Spanish label Delpozo is already moving to London and Tome to Paris.

Bucking the trend is Italian luxury house Bottega Veneta, showing at the American Stock Exchange on Thursday as a one-off to celebrate a new boutique on Madison Avenue.