THE BOLD and THE BEAU­TI­FUL

An­thony Vac­carello’s Saint Lau­rent teems with sig­na­ture de­sign el­e­ments—his and Yves’— but the Fall/win­ter col­lec­tion un­doubt­edly fo­cuses on women.

Preview (Philippines) - - Mood - BY ISHA VAL­LÉS

If you’ve been a fol­lower of the Saint Lau­rent brand, this rings true even as it has passed through the hands of var­i­ous creative di­rec­tors: The clothes are built for a strong woman. From the spirit of ad­ven­ture and rev­o­lu­tion­ary na­ture of Mon­sieur Saint Lau­rent’s legacy, to the self-aware sen­su­al­ity that came with Tom Ford and the ir­rev­er­ent rock rebels of Hedi Sli­mane, the clothes are meant to be worn with at­ti­tude. And so comes a new era un­der a de­signer who al­ready made a name de­sign­ing dar­ing dresses with dan­ger­ously high slits, the kind you can’t wear with­out a se­ri­ous amount of con­fi­dence (and a re­ally good bikini wax). One look at An­thony Vac­carello’s slew of dresses for the sea­son and you’ll feel how the spirit of the brand has met his own. It’s de­cid­edly fem­i­nine, with the very ’80s over­sized ruf­fles, lus­cious vel­vet and lace, shoul­der-bar­ing minidresses, and espe­cially the hip-high slits. You’ll feel the power all through­out, too. The an­gu­lar broad shoul­ders on blazer dresses, the cropped avi­a­tor jack­ets that loom well above the shoul­ders and frame the face, and the shine from crys­tal-stud­ded fab­rics point to a woman who’s not afraid to have all eyes on her. Be­fore you dis­miss the col­lec­tion as too in­tim­i­dat­ing, take a closer look: It’s a cool mix of strik­ing party dresses and sexy Le Smok­ing suits you’d love to wear to your next big to-do, only now mixed with ex­tra-dressy tops—crys­tal­lized sweaters and tu­nics, any­one?—that can be worn with den­ims that make your legs look so good. And let’s not for­get those hy­per-cov­etable slouchy boots that brought all that high fash­ion back to a level of com­fort. Yes, th­ese pieces were de­signed for women with the bold at­ti­tude to wear them, but now that we strive to be more em­pow­ered, that could very well be ev­ery­one.

“I LOVE MON­SIEUR SAINT LAU­RENT’S SUB­VER­SIVE APPROACH TO CLOTHES, HIS DARK RO­MAN­TI­CISM WITH A HINT OF PER­VER­SITY. I WANTED THIS COL­LEC­TION TO BE LIKE A RE-READ­ING , A RAD­I­CAL FAN­TASY OF THIS HER­ITAGE,” SAYS AN­THONY VAC­CARELLO.

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