THE BOLD and THE BEAUTIFUL
Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent teems with signature design elements—his and Yves’— but the Fall/winter collection undoubtedly focuses on women.
If you’ve been a follower of the Saint Laurent brand, this rings true even as it has passed through the hands of various creative directors: The clothes are built for a strong woman. From the spirit of adventure and revolutionary nature of Monsieur Saint Laurent’s legacy, to the self-aware sensuality that came with Tom Ford and the irreverent rock rebels of Hedi Slimane, the clothes are meant to be worn with attitude. And so comes a new era under a designer who already made a name designing daring dresses with dangerously high slits, the kind you can’t wear without a serious amount of confidence (and a really good bikini wax). One look at Anthony Vaccarello’s slew of dresses for the season and you’ll feel how the spirit of the brand has met his own. It’s decidedly feminine, with the very ’80s oversized ruffles, luscious velvet and lace, shoulder-baring minidresses, and especially the hip-high slits. You’ll feel the power all throughout, too. The angular broad shoulders on blazer dresses, the cropped aviator jackets that loom well above the shoulders and frame the face, and the shine from crystal-studded fabrics point to a woman who’s not afraid to have all eyes on her. Before you dismiss the collection as too intimidating, take a closer look: It’s a cool mix of striking party dresses and sexy Le Smoking suits you’d love to wear to your next big to-do, only now mixed with extra-dressy tops—crystallized sweaters and tunics, anyone?—that can be worn with denims that make your legs look so good. And let’s not forget those hyper-covetable slouchy boots that brought all that high fashion back to a level of comfort. Yes, these pieces were designed for women with the bold attitude to wear them, but now that we strive to be more empowered, that could very well be everyone.
“I LOVE MONSIEUR SAINT LAURENT’S SUBVERSIVE APPROACH TO CLOTHES, HIS DARK ROMANTICISM WITH A HINT OF PERVERSITY. I WANTED THIS COLLECTION TO BE LIKE A RE-READING , A RADICAL FANTASY OF THIS HERITAGE,” SAYS ANTHONY VACCARELLO.