A revamped menu shows this two Michelin-star chef at his most accessible, skirting the contemporary and timeless with a deft touch “If someone asks if you’ve tried this restaurant yet people aren’t able to tell you one element from their [meal], that’s not a good sign.” Chef William Mahi, the Tasting Room’s chef de cuisine, whose restaurant rhetoric is as much a draw as his resplendent plates, took the reins of the modern European restaurant two years ago after his stint in Athens’ Spondi. “What’s exciting about chef William is he is constantly developing a new experience for the customer,” says property president Geoff Andres. The midyear menu facelift comes with meats from Europe, fish from the Atlantic Ocean, and vegetables from local farms. “I’m basically following the seasons of Europe. In autumn, we put more mushrooms and games that I can find in Paris [into the dishes].”
The latest menu update is meant to find fulfillment in familiarity, where a 52-degree egg appetizer folds nicely with potato mousse and French black truffle, or a bone-in rib eye is presented to the diner before cooking it. Even if the fare is simple, he doesn’t need to force any sort of gimmickry to make his mark—although there are moments like the Mediterranean sea bass in salted crust, complete with smoky after-effects. Then, there’s the steak platter with Mayura Station bone-in rib eye and côte de boeuf wagyu beef: a dish with just enough elegant muscle to keep things from getting too mundane.
“What we want people to have here is an experience that creates a memory,” says Andres. And by taking various elements from its collective past, The Tasting Room has created something wholly new in what is utterly familiar.