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The Raintree Group’s new concept Izakaya Sensu + Chotto Matte don’t try to emulate the ambience of traditional Japanese izakayas with faux pastiche décor, but rather channel the energy and vibe into a fun, young and more contemporary concept.
We walked up an inclined narrow Tokyo street, void of any commerce. In the distance, red lanterns swayed invitingly from side to side and smoke puffed out the front doors every time they were opened. The lanterns looked like the head of a friendly dragon, waggling, luring you to come in.
The place was warm, crowded and pleasantly busy, with businessmen sitting at bars, smoking their cigarettes, tie knots loosened after a long day. They were either huddled together chatting and laughing, oblivious to the number of glasses of whisky and soda that were constantly being emptied and refilled or alone by the bar, languidly winding down, enjoying their sake sip by sip. Either way they were all nibbling, deftly picking at small plates with their chopsticks with a continuous stream of dishes being passed, then emptied, then passed again.
This was my first real “izakaya” experience. At first I was a little confused by the pace, then I realized it was a lot like the concept of Spanish “tapas.” You drink, you nibble, you drink some more, and you nibble some more. Rather than ordering one or two large dishes, everyone orders a little bit of everything in a haphazard manner. It doesn’t matter; you’re enjoying so you just go with the flow.
The recently opened Izakaya Sensu + Chotto Matte have the same driving principles behind it but with a fresh twist. They don’t try to emulate the ambience of these traditional Japanese izakayas with
faux pastiche décor, but rather channel the energy and vibe into a younger and more contemporary concept. This is a signature of the Raintree Group — never content to simply emulate but always trying to innovate and create something unique. Add that driving principle to their signature well-mixed cocktails and rocking DJ nights, and this is a great start to your weekend. “Out of all the types of dining establishments the Japanese have,
izakayas made the most sense,” explains owner Andrej Wisniewski, “because you can have a little bit of everything, which is something people here in Manila are used to in a Japanese restaurant.”
First off, let’s be clear: Izakaya Sensu + Chotto Matte are two establishments in one space. “Izakaya Sensu is more of the sit-down type,” Andrej says. “A traditional dining space, a bit brighter, quieter. The other side, Chotto Matte is a highball bar. It’s a bit of a misnomer because in English a highball is any long drink, but in Japan it specifically means a whisky with soda. And they’re nuts about it there! And we have a number of variations here. It’s very refreshing, you can just keep on going with it. Which I suppose is really the point!” he says, laughing.
This isn’t unfamiliar territory because fans of the Raintree group will most certainly have experienced their deadly Rocket Fuel and minipizzas while shaking to good music at Rocket Room. “We do like to have fun; it certainly fit in with what we like to do.”
The dishes are designed in that signature izakaya style — small plates to be ordered and shared. “In a traditional izakaya they’ll have at least one sushi dish and one grilled dish, but here our specialty is still sushi,” explains Wisniewski. “We made an effort to source locally — our Japanese consultants and chefs said we’re surrounded by islands so there is no reason to be importing stuff frozen. They spend every morning making the rounds of the markets, finding what’s available.”
True enough, it’s a sentiment that was underlined by consultant Nobuhide Andoh: “There are some very good fish here and we want to showcase that.”
Although they have their classics, they made a conscious effort to add their own twist to things. “In Tokyo, everything is very old, very traditional. We wanted to do something fun and young, same with the food,” continues Andoh. One standout is their chicken karaage, which, instead of being coated in the usual batter or floured, is coated in sesame seeds, giving the juicy chicken a nice, nutty crunch.
Another great creation is their Sensu Roll, a stunning, mouthwatering long plate made of two kinds of sushi rolls: Tempura Asparagus and Spicy Mayonnaise, with spicy tuna and green chili; and Crabmeat Mayo with fragrant
yuzu, fresh cucumber, fish roe and sweet mango. I also really enjoyed their whitefish sashimi with the nice pungent crunch of spring onions and tangy ponzu sauce.
Most Japanese restaurants don’t really give much thought to their dessert menu, but you absolutely have to try their decadent Miso Chocolate Cake. I was so full after all the lovely dishes but after one bite of the cake, I ended up finishing half of it. Are Japanese food and sushi not your thing? Come if only for this.
Above all, come if you’re looking to have a good time because these guys know exactly how to do it. Remember M Café Thursdays and the great beats of Rocket Room? It seems like Friday night at Chotto Matte is the new place to be. Great music, whisky cocktails, sushi and a smashing chocolate cake? Get ready to be saying “Kampai!” all night long.
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