Ко­за­бу­ро Ака­са­ка

Один из по­бе­ди­те­лей LVMH Prize — о япон­ской кон­цеп­ции mottainai, ду­ше пред­ме­тов и люб­ви к Nirvana One of the winners of LVMH Prize opens up on Japanese notion of mottainai, the soul of objects and his love for Nirvana

Numéro (Russia) - - Table Of Content - Текст ВЕРА РЕЙНЕР

О сво­ем сти­ле в двух сло­вах. Бру­таль­но-чув­ствен­ный. О вдох­но­ве­нии. Му­зы­ка и зву­ки. В по­след­ней кол­лек­ции — от­сыл­ки к об­лож­ке аль­бо­ма "Hot in the City" Бил­ли Ай­до­ла.

О му­зы­ке. Боль­ше все­го на ме­ня по­вли­ял гранж. Я увлек­ся им бла­го­да­ря стар­ше­му бра­ту. Пер­вым дис­ком, ко­то­рый я ку­пил, был "Washing Machine" Sonic Youth. А на­сто­я­щий вос­торг я ис­пы­тал, ко­гда по­слу­шал аль­бом "In Utero" Nirvana и по­смот­рел их клип на пес­ню "HeartShaped Box". Об осо­знан­но­сти. Я вы­рос в се­мье, жив­шей по япон­ско­му прин­ци­пу mottainai — «ни­че­го не рас­хо­дуй зря». Так что вни­ма­ние к эко­те­мам для ме­ня аб­со­лют­но есте­ствен­но. Я ис­поль­зую ло­каль­ные ма­те­ри­а­лы, ува­жаю ду­шу каж­до­го пред­ме­та и че­ло­ве­че­ский труд. О поль­зе LVMH Prize. Там я осо­знал, как важ­но объ­яс­нять свои ра­бо­ты дру­гим лю­дям. До это­го ме­ня ин­те­ре­со­ва­ло толь­ко твор­че­ство. О ген­де­ре. Я не счи­таю свою одеж­ду ни муж­ской, ни жен­ской: фо­ку­си­ру­юсь на про­дук­те, а не на ген­де­ре. Мои ве­щи от­сы­ла­ют к пред­ме­там муж­ско­го гар­де­роба про­шло­го, но они — для всех, ко­му в них хо­ро­шо. О пла­нах. Я хо­чу ис­поль­зо­вать успех, что­бы по­мо­гать лю­дям. Рас­ска­зы­вать че­рез свои ра­бо­ты о кон­цеп­ции mottainai, от­кры­вать ткац­кие ма­стер­ские... И боль­ше вре­ме­ни по­свя­щать ра­бо­те во­лон­те­ром в при­юте и на точ­ках раз­да­чи еды без­дом­ным в Нью-йор­ке.

On personal aesthetic. Brutal-sensitivity. On inspiration. Music and sounds. Billy Idol's "Hot in the city" album cover was one of my references for latest collection.

On music. Grange was the most influential to my vision as I've gone through that era in real time. I got into this music under influence of my eldest brother. First record I bought was Sonic Youth’s "Washing Machine". And I was super excited by Nirvana's "In Utero" album and their video on "Heart-shaped box". On mindfullness. I was raised by my family with a concept of "mottainai" — it's a traditional Japanese saying that essentially means "waste nothing". So the notion of ecology is quite natural for me. It’s about using what’s available, respecting human labor and a "soul" in each item. On LVMH'S lessons. Through LVMH Prize I found importance of explaining my creations to people. Before that I was concentrated on just creating the garments. On gender. I don't identify my designs as menswear or womenswear. I focus on products, not genders. I design garments based on something that men have historically worn. But my collections are for anybody who feels good in them. On goals. I would like to use the position of power to help people. To popularize the concept of "mottainai" through my works, to open the workshops of hand weaving... And I would like to volunteer more at the shelter and food banks in NYC when my schedule allows this.

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