Kly­ovo: A Fine Catch from Arkady Novikov

Rus­sia’s premier restau­ra­teur brings Black Sea oys­ters to the cap­i­tal’s ta­bles

The Moscow Times - - OUT & ABOUT - By An­drei Much­nik art­sre­porter@ime­dia.ru

One of the Moscow din­ing scene’s best-known ad­dresses has a new res­i­dent, and it’s no sur­prise to learn that Arkady Novikov is the man be­hind it. Kly­ovo, which makes a point of sourc­ing a lot of its seafood from the Black Sea re­gion, is the lat­est restau­rant to open its doors at 27 Petro­vka, which was pre­vi­ously home to Novikov’s short-lived Greek ven­ture Semi­ramis.

Prob­a­bly Moscow’s pre­em­i­nent restau­ra­teur, Novikov launched a num­ber of venues that de­fined the city’s 2000s scene, such as Vogue Café, Galereya, and Vanil. Later he joined the burger rev­o­lu­tion with Farsh, and caught the Rus­sian cheese craze with Sy­rovarnya. Re­cently, he opened Novikov Restau­rant & Bar in Lon­don, which placed him in the ranks of the world’s lead­ing in­ter­na­tional restau­ra­teurs.

The name of his lat­est Moscow ven­ture com­bines “klyov” — a fish­ing term mean­ing a bite — and “kly­ovo,” a Rus­sian syn­onym for “cool.”

Kly­ovo has in­her­ited the tiled ceil­ings and red shut­ters of Semi­ramis, orig­i­nally meant to evoke a Mediter­ranean in­te­rior, but has added surf­boards in the win­dows for a hip new touch.

The restau­rant has been open for two weeks and is al­ready packed, so if you don’t want to stand in line, it’s es­sen­tial to call in ad­vance and re­serve a ta­ble. This is no ac­ci­dent: Be­fore Semi­ramis, the venue was oc­cu­pied by the in­fa­mous Galereya, the oli­garch-and-model-thronged epi­cen­ter of the cap­i­tal’s high life in the 2000s. You can see some of the same crowd at Kly­ovo, but there’s no short­age of mem­bers of the new gen­er­a­tion.

Kly­ovo’s head chef is Zakhar Ivanchenko, who pre­vi­ously worked at Galereya with Uil­liam Lam­berty, as well as for Novikov Cater­ing.

There’s a wooden oven in the main hall and you can try Rus­sian tra­di­tional flat­bread (lep­yoshka), baked there with var­i­ous top­pings (na­mazki). A set of flat­breads with meat, fish or veg­etable top­pings will cost you just 450 rubles ($7.80).

How­ever, Black Sea oys­ters are the main at­trac­tion here.

At Kly­ovo you can try them for 170 rubles apiece. You can also get them baked with cheese or tomato sauce, set­ting you back 300 rubles.

The mus­sels (550 rubles) and shrimp (500 rubles) are also from the Black Sea re­gion, whereas the crabs (from 700 rubles) are flown over from Rus­sia’s Far East crab mecca of Kam­chatka. From the main cour­ses, or­der the Black Sea tur­bot (or kalkan) baked with herbs and baby po­ta­toes (1,000 rubles), or try the crab­meat burg­ers with bisque sauce (850 rubles).

De­nis Ko­nenkov, the man be­hind the bar, has solid cre­den­tials: He pre­vi­ously worked at cut­ting-edge Moscow restau­rants Saxon + Pa­role and Sixty. For Kly­ovo, he has come up with a range of in­ven­tive au­teur cock­tails (start­ing from 380 rubles) as well as vodka in­fu­sions.

The oys­ters wash down well with sparkling wine (from 370 rubles), and the home-made ver­mouth (200 rubles) is also worth a try. +7 (495) 790 1596 novikov­group.ru/restau­rants/klevo 27 Ul­itsa Petro­vka Metro Chekhovskaya, Pushkin­skaya

Kly­ovo of­fers din­ers the chance to try Crimean oys­ters and mus­sels, along­side es­tab­lished fa­vorites like Kam­chatka crab.

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