RA­DIOMIR

Tu­dor’s Her­itage line has be­come a favourite among fans of the vin­tage pieces that were its orig­i­nal in­spi­ra­tion.

24-7 (Singapore) - - Contents - BY SU JIA XIAN

Of­ficine Pan­erai’s mod­ern Ra­diomir col­lec­tion traces its an­ces­try to a 1930s archetype

In 2010, the Her­itage Chrono­graph in black and or­ange marked the suc­cess­ful launch of Tu­dor’s Her­itage col­lec­tion. Three years later, the brand has ex­panded the range to in­clude a sec­ond chrono­graph, the Her­itage Chrono Blue.

True to the retro spirit of the line, both mod­els were in­spired by the “Monte Carlo” chrono­graphs of the ’70s.

Dis­tin­guished by their colour­ful di­als, the orig­i­nal Monte Carlo time­pieces are now highly cov­eted. In fact, the chrono­graph from this iconic line is per­haps the most de­sir­able vin­tage Tu­dor timepiece, partly be­cause of its unique dial de­sign, which has yet to be repli­cated by Tu­dor or its sis­ter com­pany, Rolex.

The pub­lic­ity sur­round­ing the re­makes has also boosted in­ter­est in the orig­i­nals. Prices for Monte Carlo watches have spiked in re­cent years, along­side those of other vin­tage Tu­dor watches – which have also in­spired Her­itage col­lec­tion pieces, like last year’s Black Bay.

While the first Her­itage Chrono­graph was in­spired by the first Tu­dor chrono­graph from the ’70s (dubbed “Home­plate” for the shape of its hour in­dices), this year’s Her­itage Chrono Blue takes its cues from the sub­se­quent Ref. 7169 of 1973 – it sports a 1970s-in­spired colour scheme of blue, grey and or­ange.

To com­plete the vin­tage look, Tu­dor in­cludes a match­ing blue, grey and or­ange can­vas strap in­spired by the mil­i­taryis­sue Nato strap favoured by watch col­lec­tors.

Be­yond the aes­thet­ics, the Her­itage Chrono Blue has all the de­tails and qual­ity of a mod­ern timepiece, in­clud­ing scratch-re­sis­tant sap­phire crys­tal that is wa­ter-re­sis­tant up to 150m. And though the case shape re­mains sim­i­lar to that of its pre­de­ces­sors, it has grown to 42mm to suit con­tem­po­rary

tastes. In­side the Her­itage Chrono Blue is an au­to­matic move­ment based on the ETA 2892, which is more con­ve­nient for the wearer of the watch than the man­u­al­wind cal­i­bre of be­fore.

The Her­itage Ad­vi­sor

The Her­itage chrono­graph is not the only reis­sue that re­ceived a facelift this year. When it was un­veiled in 2011, the Her­itage Ad­vi­sor was Tu­dor’s first mod­ern alarm watch. Mod­elled on the Ad­vi­sor alarm of 1957, the Her­itage Ad­vi­sor was only avail­able with a sil­ver dial, un­til a twotone black-dial ver­sion was added this year.

While the 1957 orig­i­nal had a sim­ple dial and fea­tured just an alarm and the time, the new Her­itage Ad­vi­sor of­fers con­sid­er­ably more. For one, the vol­ume and clar­ity of the alarm have been en­hanced by a 42mm steel and titanium case, com­pared with the orig­i­nal which was steel and 34mm.

Op­er­at­ing the alarm is sim­ple enough: A pusher at “8” turns the alarm on or off, and an aper­ture at “9” on the dial in­di­cates the state of the alarm. The alarm is set via the crown at “2”, which moves the red alarm hand back­wards or for­ward, while the sec­ond crown at “4” is to wind and set the watch. The dial fea­tures a date in­di­ca­tor at “6” as well as a power re­serve dis­play at “3”.

The Her­itage Ad­vi­sor is also wa­ter-re­sis­tant to 100m, and fea­tures a scratch-re­sis­tant domed sap­phire crys­tal. And like all the other Her­itage mod­els, it comes with a fab­ric strap, in ad­di­tion to ei­ther an al­li­ga­tor band or steel bracelet.

It looks like Tu­dor has found its retro groove, with­out sac­ri­fic­ing the ex­pected con­ve­niences that come with mod­ern watch­mak­ing.

The new Her­itage Chrono Blue and Her­itage Ad­vi­sor fea­ture en­hanced in­ner work­ings while

keep­ing to the orig­i­nals’ vin­tage de­signs

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