BACK TO BASICS
While many watch brands today share Stern’s observation, most have waded into the category of women’s technical watches with varied results. The most common grievance is when brands try to pass off men’s technical watches as women’s creations by simply dressing the same watches in feminine styles. Given this, several watch brands are taking a backto-basics approach this year by offering simple mechanical models created especially for women.
Vacheron Constantin’s new Patrimony Ladies and Metiers d’Art Florilege collections, for instance, feature specially developed in-house automatic and hand-wound movements that are certified by the Hallmark of Geneva.
“It is difficult to say which type of complications would appeal to ladies. That’s why we are starting slowly with watches that feature basic but high-quality movements,” says Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin’s creative director.
Indeed, there is no shortage of beautiful, fuss-free mechanical options for women at different price brackets – from Audemars Piguet’s Jules Audemars, Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur and GirardPerregaux’s 1966 collections at the top end, to more affordable models such as Hamilton’s Jazzmaster Lady Auto, Baume & Mercier’s Linea Automatic and Montblanc’s Star Classique Lady Automatic.
For the record, among our favourites in this category is Omega’s Constellation Sedna, which comes in a case featuring the brand’s proprietary rose gold alloy (mixing at least 75 per cent gold with copper and palladium), and an automatic movement equipped with silicon balance spring to ensure the movement’s higher precision and longevity.
“It is difficult to say which type of complications would appeal to ladies. That’s why we are starting slowly with watches that feature basic but high-quality movements.” – CHRISTIAN SELMONI, CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF VACHERON CONSTANTIN
“The market for women’s complications remains largely unorganised. But that only means there is huge potential
for expansion.” – NICOLAS BOS, CEO, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
The automatic in-house Calibre 2450 in Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony Lady with Geneva Hallmark
Jazzmaster Lady Auto 30mm stainless steel and rose PVD case, matching bracelet, and automatic movement, Hamilton
Czech model Petra Nemcova
Giovanna Battaglia, contributing
fashion editor for W magazine
Excalibur 36mm steel case with diamonds, matching bracelet, and automatic RD821 movement, Roger Dubuis
Calatrava Ref. 7121
33mm 18K yellow gold case, alligator
strap, and handwound Caliber 215 PS LU movement,
Jules Audemars 33mm 18K rose gold case, matching bracelet, and hand-wound Calibre 3090 movement, Audemars Piguet Patrimony Contemporaine Lady 36mm 18K rose gold case with diamonds, matching bracelet, and automatic 2460 SC movement, Vacheron Constantin
Outside the Celine Fall/ Winter 2013 show
Linea 27mm stainless steel case, matching bracelet, and automatic movement, Baume & Mercier
Star Classique Lady Automatic 34mm 18K rose gold case with diamonds, alligator strap, and automatic MB 4810408 movement, Montblanc
Outside the Balmain Fall/ Winter 2013 show
Miroslava Duma, street-style star and founder of fashion site Buro 24/7
Assembling the doubleretrograde movement of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantee
Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantee 38mm white gold case, alligator strap, and hand-wound double-retrograde movement, Van Cleef & Arpels
Admiral’s Cup Legend 38 Chronograph 38mm steel case with diamonds, matching bracelet, and automatic Caliber CO132 movement, Corum
Marine Chronograph for Women 34.6mm steel case, leather strap, and automatic Cal. 550 movement, Breguet
Seen outside the Marni Fall/ Winter 2013 show