SHOW AND TELL

March 19-26 / Basel, Switzer­land Figures: 1,500 brands; 150,000 at­ten­dees from over 100 coun­tries

Adore Gems & Timepieces - - CONTENTS -

Lead­ing trends from Basel­world 2015, Paris Cou­ture week, Cou­ture Ve­gas, Mas­ter­piece Lon­don and Hong Kong Jew­ellery & Gem Fair pave the way for 2016

The Basel­world fair took Switzer­land by storm and the im­pres­sions from one of the world’s most pres­ti­gious jew­ellery, watch and gem­stone ex­hi­bi­tions were noth­ing short of daz­zling. With an early spring, the an­cient city of Basel wel­comes the most pres­ti­gious com­pa­nies of the global jew­ellery busi­ness. Tak­ing place an­nu­ally, ex­hibitors oc­cupy more than 100,000sq-m of floor space with the sole ob­jec­tive of amaz­ing and amus­ing even the most blasé jew­ellery-lov­ing au­di­ence.

BLUE CRUSH

Blue coloured stones seemed to be the or­der of the day and one of the most-talked about were neon-blue Paraïba tour­ma­lines. Stunning ex­am­ples in­cluded an ex­cep­tional ring set with a 41.57-ct Paraïba tour­ma­line from Chopard and two re­mark­able ex­am­ples from Paul Wild: A 16.11-ct tril­liant-cut and 9.38-ct cabo­chon-cut Paraïba tour­ma­line. An­other blue gem­stone that had the halls buzzing was the tan­zan­ite, whose value has been soar­ing be­cause of dwin­dling sup­plies. There were some spec­tac­u­lar finds of blue-blue tan­zan­ites that are rarer from the tra­di­tional blue-vi­o­let va­ri­ety. Mag­nif­i­cent tum­bled tan­zan­ites were seen at both Jew­ellery Theatre and Miki­moto, rang­ing from 16ct to about 40ct. Of course, gem­stone dealer Paul Wild was right­fully proud of his over 700-ct al­most sap­phire-blue faceted tan­zan­ite that got snapped up in a jiffy.

Clas­sic sap­phires suites were seen at Graff Di­a­monds and Bayco, who had a neck­lace fea­tur­ing the 55-ct non-treated royal blue Burma Ma­jes­tic sap­phire that shone with ex­cep­tional qual­ity. At de Griso­gono, a triple-row torso-cre­ation with cir­cu­lar side-dec­o­ra­tions of pavé-set emer­alds and di­a­monds and sev­eral hun­dreds of carats of sky-blue turquoise were dis­played for the lucky few ad­mit­ted in to its guarded sanctuary. Else­where, light blue aquamarines and topazes scat­tered across cre­ations from many brands to com­plete the blue pal­ette.

TAK­ING FLIGHT

Basel­world took flight in such a way that even Harry Win­ston, Chanel, Breguet and Faberge could not keep their watches away from the in­flu­ence of var­i­ous winged crea­tures. But it was in the fas­ci­nat­ing uni­verse of jew­ellery that the trend for pea­cocks, but­ter­flies, drag­on­flies and feath­ers un­folded in the big­gest way, and that held true for both haute joail­lerie and fine jew­ellery alike.

The colours and “eyes” of the ma­jes­tic pea­cock’s tail are far too gor­geous for jew­ellery de­sign­ers to stay away from. Like­wise, pea­cock-coloured Tahi­tian cul­tured pearls with a gor­geous green body-colour and green, blue and ma­genta over­tones are al­ways a de­light. Chopard and Car­rera y Car­rera both gave their unique take on the genre — Chopard with the “Pea­cock” ear­rings from the An­i­mal World an­niver­sary col­lec­tion that fea­tured emer­alds beads, Paraïba tour­ma­lines, cabo­chon-cut sap­phires and tsa­vorites; and Car­rera y Car­rera with a neck­lace set with a

green tour­ma­line, io­lites, sap­phires, tsa­vorites and di­a­monds. Miki­moto in­ter­preted a be­jew­elled plumage in the unique Feather neck­lace, with five rows of lus­trous Akoya and white South Sea cul­tured pearls ac­cented by the beau­ti­ful hand-crafted mo­tifs.

Boucheron is­sued an or­ange sap­phire ver­sion of the clas­sic Hera ring (pre­vi­ously done in a black-and-white ver­sion and in blue-and-white) while Ja­cob & Co. pre­sented the Ja­cob’s Plume fine jew­ellery col­lec­tion, which plays upon the his­tor­i­cal trend and cul­tural sig­nif­i­cance of wear­ing feath­ers as a form of adorn­ment. Mean­while, Roberto Coin, who is known for his ex­quis­ite pavé-set­ting work, showed his take on the trend with the fully sculpted Fal­con and Par­rot rings.

JEW­ELLERY CAT­E­GORIES

Large neck­laces were amongst the most pop­u­lar jew­ellery cat­e­gories, prefer­ably cover­ing most of the torso as seen at Chopard, de Griso­gono, Miki­moto and Ja­cob & Co. Mul­ti­func­tional and con­vert­ible cre­ations are a di­rect off­shoot of the large neck­laces and an ab­so­lute must ac­cord­ing to the ex­hibitors at the Swiss fair. Au­tore blazed the way with the Curly Pink neck­lace, which could be taken apart into sev­eral smaller pieces (brooches and pen­dants) and worn in at least five dif­fer­ent ways. Miki­moto also de­serves a right­ful men­tion here, as does the large ruby neck­lace with de­tach­able di­a­mond mo­tif from Gar­rard. Fi­nally, Ja­cob & Co. went all-in in the torso jew­ellery cat­e­gory with a golden di­a­mond-set net cre­ation.

Ori­en­tal-in­spired hand-jew­ellery (also known as bracelet-rings, hand-bands and bringlets) made a great vis­ual im­pres­sion; from the slen­der golden chains set with evil­eye mo­tifs at Aaron Basha, to Ja­cob & Co.’s moon-and-star mo­tif, to Yoko Lon­don’s pearls and Damiani’s di­a­mond-set ver­sions of the trend.

Fal­con ring in 18k rose gold, di­a­monds and onyx from Roberto Coin

From left: Grap­poli watch in white gold set with paraiba tour­ma­lines, briolette-cut ap­atites and white di­a­monds, fea­tur­ing a snow-set dial and white galuchat strap from de Griso­gono; the side pro­file of a 41.57-ct oval paraiba tour­ma­line and di­a­monds ring from Chopard

Pea­cock ear­rings in 18k white gold and ti­ta­nium ear­rings, set with emerald beads, sap­phires, di­a­monds, tsa­vorites, mul­ti­colour sap­phires, cabo­chon cut amethysts and Paraïba tour­ma­lines from Chopard

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