SHOW STOP­PERS

Now into its third year, the an­nual Watches & Won­ders fair in Hong Kong did not dis­ap­point with its new horo­log­i­cal of­fer­ings, writes Ly­di­anne Yap

Adore Gems & Timepieces - - CONTENTS -

Horo­log­i­cal high­lights from the third Watches & Won­ders ex­hi­bi­tion in Hong Kong

First launched in 2013 as Asia’s an­swer to the an­nual Salon In­ter­na­tional de la Haute Hor­logerie (SIHH) that has taken place in Geneva since 1991, Watches & Won­ders re­turned to Hong Kong for its third edi­tion in Septem­ber 2015. Or­gan­ised by the Fon­da­tion de la Haute Hor­logerie (FHH), the four-day ex­po­si­tion saw guests from across the re­gion flock­ing to the Hong Kong Con­ven­tion and Ex­hi­bi­tion Cen­tre (HKCEC) for the much-an­tic­i­pated show­case of watch­mak­ing savoir-faire.

As per pre­vi­ous years, the ex­hi­bi­tion of­fered watch­mak­ing work­shops that gave vis­i­tors first- hand ex­pe­ri­ence in as­sem­bling watch move­ments; in-depth lec­tures about in­dus­try trends; and a cul­tural ex­hi­bi­tion. This is, of course, on top of the fair’s main high­light: The de­but of new time­piece cre­ations by the 12 par­tic­i­pat­ing fine watch­mak­ing Maisons. From pocket watch minute re­peaters and erotic com­pli­ca­tions, to highly artis­tic (and not to men­tion re­al­is­tic) dec­o­rated di­als, this in­stal­ment of Watches & Won­ders def­i­nitely yielded some im­pres­sive pieces. And af­ter last year’s less than smooth-sail­ing edi­tion (in light of Hong Kong’s un­for­tu­nate state of po­lit­i­cal un­rest dur­ing the show pe­riod), it ap­pears that third time’s truly a charm.

A. LANGE & SÖHNE 1815 “200th An­niver­sary F A Lange”

To cel­e­brate the 200th birth­day of its founder Fer­di­nand Adolph Lange, A. Lange & Söhne re­leased a lim­ited edi­tion ver­sion of its 1815 time­piece ear­lier this year in plat­inum (pre­vi­ously only pro­duced in pink, yel­low and white gold), with a black dial. Now, the Saxon man­u­fac­ture is of­fer­ing yet another vari­ant for this 200-units-only com­mem­o­ra­tive watch, with a honey gold case and solid sil­ver ar­genté-grainé dial. Like pre­vi­ous pieces within the 1815 col­lec­tion, it runs on the L051.1 cal­i­bre (left), which pro­vides a power re­serve of about 55 hours and a small sec­onds dis­play at six o’clock.

CARTIER

Clé de Cartier Mys­te­ri­ous Hour

Cartier gives one of its most well­known sym­bols — the mys­te­ri­ous move­ment com­pli­ca­tion — a new lease of life and com­bines it with the man­u­fac­ture’s new Clé de Cartier case shape. In this en­chant­ing pal­la­dium piece, the watch’s hour and minute hands seem to be sus­pended in thin air within its off-cen­tred sub-dial, com­pletely de­tached from the cal­i­bre 9981 MC move­ment pow­er­ing it, while the main open worked dial show­cases blue Ro­man nu­mer­als. The watch is also avail­able in 18k pink gold.

BAUME & MERCIER

Clifton 1830 Pocket Watch

Cre­ated to com­mem­o­rate Baume & Mercier’s 185th an­niver­sary, this time­keeper draws its in­spi­ra­tion from the brand’s own archive of his­tor­i­cal pieces dat­ing back to the 19th cen­tury. As such, the ticker’s skele­tonised me­chan­i­cal move­ment is housed within an 18k red gold pocket watch case. It is equipped with a five-minute re­peater mech­a­nism that chimes a low tone on the hour, and a pair of high and low notes for each five-minute pe­riod elapsed since the hour. It is avail­able in 30 num­bered pieces.

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN

Portofino Hand-Wound Mono­pusher

Show­ing that less is in­deed more, IWC Schaffhausen un­veiled its first-ever model fit­ted with a sin­gle push-but­ton chrono­graph, in­stead of the typ­i­cal two push­ers. Here, the push but­ton is in­te­grated into the crown and is used to start, stop and re­set the chrono­graph. Be­sides be­ing more con­ve­nient, the sin­gle­but­ton con­cept fur­ther en­hances the clean and un­der­stated aes­thetic that the Portofino pieces are recog­nised for. Driven by the in-house 59360 cal­i­bre, the watch presents an im­pres­sive power re­serve of about eight days and also has a date win­dow lo­cated at the three o’clock po­si­tion. It comes avail­able in ei­ther 18k red gold with sil­ver-plated dial or white gold paired with a slate-coloured face.

JAEGER-LECOUL­TRE

Geo­physic True Sec­ond

Dis­play­ing its watch­mak­ing knowhow, Jaeger-LeCoul­tre in­tro­duced a dead-beat sec­onds com­pli­ca­tion to its Geo­physic time­piece. Equipped with the cal­i­bre 770, the sec­ond hand of this horologe per­forms a rhyth­mic jump ev­ery sec­ond, in­stead of glid­ing along smoothly like in most me­chan­i­cal watches. Bor­row­ing its el­e­gant aes­thetic from the first Geo­physic chronome­ter the man­u­fac­ture cre­ated for sci­en­tists on ex­pe­di­tions back in 1958, the watch spans a mere 39.6mm and fea­tures a del­i­cate, finely grained dial. It comes in ei­ther steel or pink gold.

MONT­BLANC

Mont­blanc Her­itage Chronométrie Dual Time Vasco da Gama Lim­ited Edi­tion 238

Build­ing on its ex­ist­ing Her­itage Chronométrie Dual Time piece, Mont­blanc re­vealed a spe­cial model of the watch bear­ing the Vasco da Gama theme that has ap­peared across most of its lim­ited re­leases in 2015. In this ver­sion, de­sign el­e­ments re­call­ing the voy­ages of Por­tuguese ex­plorer Vasco da Gama are used. While the home time counter at 12 o’clock de­picts the night sky of the south­ern hemi­sphere (against which the South­ern Cross con­stel­la­tion is pre­sented), the sec­onds counter lo­cated at six o’clock fea­tures a minia­ture map of the world. It has a case made of stain­less steel paired with an 18k red gold bezel and is avail­able in 238 pieces only, in ref­er­ence to the height of the “Cape Point Peak” light­house (at the Cape of Good Hope), which the voy­ager sailed around in 1497.

OF­FICINE PAN­ERAI

Ra­diomir 1940 3 Days

Ini­tially in­tended as tran­si­tional model of sorts be­tween the first Ra­diomir (1936) and the Lu­mi­nor 1950, the Ra­diomir 1940 was first cre­ated by the Floren­tine watch­maker to sat­isfy the de­mand­ing re­quire­ments of the Royal Ital­ian Navy’s spe­cial­ist un­der­wa­ter forces. To­day, the his­toric piece has been re­vived and given a con­tem­po­rary spin with the Ra­diomir 1940 3 Days. Fit­ted with the new hand-wound P.1000 move­ment, which has two spring bar­rels con­nected in se­ries, the 42-mm watch has an im­pres­sive power re­serve of three days. It is avail­able in stain­less steel (PAM 00574) and 5NPT red gold (PAM 00575).

PI­AGET

Lime­light Stella

As Pi­aget’s first ded­i­cated ladies’ com­pli­cated time­piece that is man­u­fac­tured en­tirely in­house, the Lime­light Stella was de­signed and de­vel­oped within both its man­u­fac­tures at La Côte-aux-Fées and Geneva. Fit­ted with the 584P self-wind­ing move­ment, the fem­i­nine horologe presents a moon phase com­pli­ca­tion that is set against a white dial. Adding to the watch’s no­blesse are 126 bril­liant-cut di­a­monds that weigh ap­prox­i­mately 0.65ct on its 18k pink gold case.

RICHARD MILLE

RM 69 Erotic Tourbillon

De­vel­oped in col­lab­o­ra­tion with Audemars Piguet Re­naud & Papi, Richard Mille’s RM 69 is un­like most erotic time­pieces that have been pre­sented through­out watch­mak­ing his­tory. In­stead of the more typ­i­cal (and graphic) au­toma­tons, the watch of­fers a taste­ful and orig­i­nal take on erot­ica in the form of words and phrases. It dis­plays three Grade 5 ti­ta­nium rollers, which re­sem­ble Ti­betan prayer wheels on the up­per half of the dial, each en­graved with dif­fer­ent words or phrases. When the pusher lo­cated at the 10 o’clock po­si­tion is de­pressed, all three rollers will ro­tate and stop at ran­dom to form a sug­ges­tive sen­tence. Forged also in Grade 5 ti­ta­nium, the horologe has a re­serve time of about 69 hours and is avail­able in a lim­ited quan­tity of 30 pieces only.

ROGER DUBUIS

Ex­cal­ibur Spi­der Pocket Time In­stru­ment

First pre­sented in 2013’s Ex­cal­ibur Qu­atuor, the re­mark­able RD101 cal­i­bre makes an ap­pear­ance once again — this time, in the Ex­cal­ibur Spi­der Pocket Time In­stru­ment. Built with four sep­a­rate bal­ance wheels that are con­nected through a se­ries of dif­fer­en­tial gears, the bal­ances work in pairs to pro­vide im­me­di­ate com­pen­sa­tion for the rate vari­a­tions caused due to move­ment or grav­ity. The re­sult is a highly ef­fi­cient and pre­cise time­piece that op­er­ates at a fre­quency of 16Hz and pro­vides ex­cep­tional time­keep­ing ac­cu­racy. As its name sug­gests, the 60-mm ti­ta­nium pocket watch is com­pletely skele­tonised to mimic the ap­pear­ance of a spi­der’s web and comes with a match­ing ti­ta­nium chain and desk stand. It is lim­ited to 28 pieces only.

VACHERON CON­STANTIN

Heures Créa­tives Heure Dis­crète

As part of the new Heures Créa­tives col­lec­tion that is ded­i­cated to women and in­spired by iconic artis­tic pe­ri­ods, the Heure Dis­crète bor­rows its aes­thetic from the art deco era and is char­ac­terised by sym­me­try and clean lines. The time­piece also re­vis­its the tra­di­tion of se­cret watches and is fit­ted with a carved white gold fan (a highly prized ac­ces­sory back in the Roar­ing Twen­ties) that slides aside to re­veal a con­cealed white mother-of-pearl dial. The fan is del­i­cately forged to re­sem­ble guipure lace and is com­pletely paved in 286 di­a­monds. It comes paired with ei­ther a black stain strap or a white gold bracelet set with ad­di­tional di­a­monds to­talling ap­prox­i­mately 11ct.

VAN CLEEF & AR­PELS

Lady Ar­pels Car­di­nal Carmin

The French Mai­son adds a se­ries of three new time­pieces to its Ex­tra­or­di­nary Di­als col­lec­tion, lim­ited to 22 units per piece. The re­sult of a col­lab­o­ra­tion with feather artist Nelly Sau­nier, each dial presents a bird cre­ated us­ing ac­tual feath­ers soar­ing over a land­scape com­posed of hard stone mar­quetry. The Lady Ar­pels Car­di­nal Carmin in par­tic­u­lar show­cases a car­di­nal bird fash­ioned out of crim­son plumage fly­ing over moun­tains and val­leys made from jade, variscite and blood jasper. The light blue sky is achieved with the use of lari­mar while the wind­ing rivers are de­picted us­ing di­a­monds.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Singapore

© PressReader. All rights reserved.