Trust the instincts of this chef
THE LONELY PLATE of wild yellowtail amberjack is waiting for a final touch: its signature potent kick. Sam Aisbett stirs up a pot of powdered wasabi, and before the fumes from the liquid nitrogen engulf the room, scoops out a mouthful for me to sample. Like a snowflake, the powder
melts on my tongue, so quickly that the cold barely registers. What remains is a pleasantly cool trace of freshly grated wasabi with none of the overbearing assault you get from the supermarket variety. Aisbett starts dressing the amberjack in white soy, bonito oil, horseradish cream
and apple. I watch him roll it in an apple dashi jelly and try to take notes, even though he tells me there’s no recipe and that he’s doing all of it intuitively. Well, I’ll be... for the final dish looked like something out
of a dream, and tasted as divine.