Swell Snap

BBC Earth (Asia) - - Snapshot - Hawaii, USA

Photographer Sash Fitzsim­mons claims he risked his life to take this in­cred­i­ble im­age. And physi­cist and oceanog­ra­pher Dr He­len Cz­er­ski agrees that it’s a dan­ger­ous business.

“The en­ergy of a bar­rel wave like this one ul­ti­mately comes from the wind push­ing the ocean sur­face into rip­ples and then up into big­ger and big­ger waves,” she says. “As the wa­ter gets shal­lower, that en­ergy is con­cen­trated and the waves steepen un­til they break in th­ese beau­ti­ful long bar­rels. One cu­bic me­tre of wa­ter weighs a tonne, so the rapid move­ment of this much wa­ter rep­re­sents a huge amount of ki­netic en­ergy. Both the surfer and the pho­tog­ra­phers need su­perb judg­ment – and a bit of luck – to stay safe.”

To take the pic­ture, Fitzsim­mons used a GoPro cam­era with a fish­eye lens. It was fit­ted with a dome to push wa­ter away from the cam­era, al­low­ing him to cap­ture the ac­tion above and be­low the sur­face.

PHOTO: Caters News

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