A class above

We weigh in on Ste­fano Pi­lati’s cur­tain call for Ermenegildo Zegna Cou­ture to de­fine what dress­ing well can mean for a man.

Esquire (Singapore) - - Style -

We

imagine it to be no easy feat for a de­signer to de­cide what his last col­lec­tion for the largest menswear brand in the world will be. But the ex­quis­ite ex­e­cu­tion of the Ermenegildo Zegna Cou­ture AW16 col­lec­tion puts any doubts—if they ever ex­isted in the first place—to rest. For his third and fi­nal year helm­ing the brand, Ste­fano Pi­lati keeps the mood som­bre while de­liv­er­ing a sump­tu­ous ar­ray of tex­tures.

An el­e­gant soul is ev­i­dent through­out the col­lec­tion, best cap­tured by the com­bi­na­tion of sharply tai­lored dress shirts paired with wide-cut trousers, a sig­na­ture Pi­lati sil­hou­ette. A dif­fer­ent take on mas­cu­line shapes, the re­laxed fit of bil­low­ing blaz­ers and over­sized state­ment coats pro­vides con­text for a man who ex­udes quiet con­fi­dence in both bear­ing and at­tire. Even so, noth­ing in this ap­par­ent non­cha­lance is ac­ci­den­tal, and the Ermenegildo Zegna Cou­ture AW16 col­lec­tion makes this dis­tinc­tion with sump­tu­ous baroque bro­cades and lux­u­ri­ous hand-em­broi­dered or­na­men­ta­tion re­alised in Italy.

The ele­gance con­tin­ues with the choice of fab­rics—su­perfine Lan­i­fi­cio Zegna wools honed over decades of ex­pe­ri­ence and re­search are em­ployed, while con­stant in­no­va­tion to pro­duce sus­tain­able tex­tiles like re­cy­cled polyester re­sult in a fine amal­ga­ma­tion of form and func­tion, her­itage and fu­ture. No­ble Ital­ian tai­lor­ing meets ate­lier crafts­man­ship for evening­wear that is as­suredly un­pre­ten­tious yet exquisitely made and fin­ished. Here, fil coupé does not sym­bol­ise an overtly dec­o­rated in­di­vid­ual; in­stead it sets the tone for menswear cou­ture in the sea­sons to come. In­deed, Pi­lati has gath­ered an as­sort­ment of iconic pat­terns, such as her­ring­bone, checks and pais­ley, and seam­lessly in­te­grated them with the col­lec­tion.

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