Hand­book

The appointment of Alessan­dro Sar­tori as Artis­tic Di­rec­tor of Ermenegildo Zegna marks a fresh chapter in the brand’s his­tory, push­ing the bound­aries and the in­no­va­tion of de­sign and fab­ri­ca­tion tech­niques of the house to cre­ate a brand­new sil­hou­ette for t

Esquire (Singapore) - - Contents -

Drum roll, please.

They say you never for­get how to ride a bike, but in the case of Alessan­dro Sar­tori’s re­turn to the house of Zegna, the metaphor­i­cal bike has got­ten some se­ri­ous up­grades since he left. Not sat­is­fied with full in­te­gra­tion of their fab­ri­ca­tion process, from own­ing the farms where sheep are reared for their wool to the fac­to­ries that weave its fab­rics, Zegna ac­quired work­shops that spe­cialise in sports­wear as well as leather.

It must sound like mu­sic to the ears of Sar­tori who, for his de­but col­lec­tion for the Ermenegildo Zegna Cou­ture line, has turned the tra­di­tional no­tions of fab­rics on their head, and mas­ter­fully melded the sil­hou­ettes of both sports­wear and tai­lor­ing. Felt is wo­ven, ul­tra­light cash­mere, turn­ing suits into hardy outerwear; leathers are shaved thin­ner than ever be­fore, and then given a wax treat­ment that lends both a pa­per-like tex­ture as well as wa­ter­proof prop­er­ties. The usual chunky and hefty quilts are made lighter, and used with jacquards on both bombers and suit jack­ets.

The re­sult is a highly func­tional, tech­ni­cal ar­ti­cle of cloth­ing that’s not what it seems.

Mir­ror­ing this spirit of in­no­va­tion and creativ­ity is spe­cial­ist printers, Do­minie Press and the men be­hind it. From hum­ble be­gin­nings at De­pot Lane, with a sin­gle colour-print­ing ma­chine, to its trans­for­ma­tion into a full-fledged print­ing house, the com­pany is known for pro­duc­ing tech­ni­cally-chal­leng­ing cre­ative col­lat­er­als, as well as beau­ti­ful de­sign and cof­fee-ta­ble books. From coming up with new ways to bind fab­rics to mag­a­zines, to rub­beris­ing cov­ers with elec­tri­cal tran­sis­tors, or even some­thing as sim­ple as mix­ing dif­fer­ent types of inks to achieve a spe­cific ef­fect, Do­minie Press doesn’t shy away from think­ing out of the box to get the job done.

What sets Sar­tori’s Ermenegildo Zegna Cou­ture Fall/Win­ter ’17 col­lec­tion and Do­minie Press apart from the rest of their peers is the keen un­der­stand­ing that it’s never just about the tools at your dis­posal, but rather how you use them.

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