The appointment of Alessandro Sartori as Artistic Director of Ermenegildo Zegna marks a fresh chapter in the brand’s history, pushing the boundaries and the innovation of design and fabrication techniques of the house to create a brandnew silhouette for t
Drum roll, please.
They say you never forget how to ride a bike, but in the case of Alessandro Sartori’s return to the house of Zegna, the metaphorical bike has gotten some serious upgrades since he left. Not satisfied with full integration of their fabrication process, from owning the farms where sheep are reared for their wool to the factories that weave its fabrics, Zegna acquired workshops that specialise in sportswear as well as leather.
It must sound like music to the ears of Sartori who, for his debut collection for the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture line, has turned the traditional notions of fabrics on their head, and masterfully melded the silhouettes of both sportswear and tailoring. Felt is woven, ultralight cashmere, turning suits into hardy outerwear; leathers are shaved thinner than ever before, and then given a wax treatment that lends both a paper-like texture as well as waterproof properties. The usual chunky and hefty quilts are made lighter, and used with jacquards on both bombers and suit jackets.
The result is a highly functional, technical article of clothing that’s not what it seems.
Mirroring this spirit of innovation and creativity is specialist printers, Dominie Press and the men behind it. From humble beginnings at Depot Lane, with a single colour-printing machine, to its transformation into a full-fledged printing house, the company is known for producing technically-challenging creative collaterals, as well as beautiful design and coffee-table books. From coming up with new ways to bind fabrics to magazines, to rubberising covers with electrical transistors, or even something as simple as mixing different types of inks to achieve a specific effect, Dominie Press doesn’t shy away from thinking out of the box to get the job done.
What sets Sartori’s Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Fall/Winter ’17 collection and Dominie Press apart from the rest of their peers is the keen understanding that it’s never just about the tools at your disposal, but rather how you use them.