Suited and re­booted

A quiet evo­lu­tion (not rev­o­lu­tion) is tak­ing place at the house of dun­hill with the hir­ing of Cre­ative Di­rec­tor, Mark We­ston. We trav­elled to Lon­don, to pho­to­graph vet­eran ac­tor, Hu Bing, in his cap­sule col­lec­tion for the Fall/ Win­ter ’17 sea­son, as well

Esquire (Singapore) - - Brand Story -

Esquire: We would like to know more about the in­spi­ra­tion be­hind the cap­sule col­lec­tion. What can you share with us? Mark We­ston: It was ac­tu­ally born from a prag­matic point of view. For me, it was im­por­tant to look around [the brand] and see what sorts of things already ex­isted, and if there was any­thing missing. I also wanted to bring a new point of view to dun­hill.

As a de­signer, I’ve ad­mired dun­hill for many years, and al­ways kept an eye on what’s hap­pen­ing. But it felt a lit­tle nos­tal­gic, a lit­tle for­got­ten, so the col­lec­tion is about adding a cer­tain sen­si­bil­ity and ver­sa­til­ity, and mak­ing the brand rel­e­vant. I found my­self think­ing, okay, well, what’s missing in the com­pany? Great coats, down coats and beau­ti­ful knitwear. But we also didn’t have any ten­nis shoes or sneak­ers which ev­ery guy wears in some shape or form th­ese days.

It was more about the phi­los­o­phy than the theme, and set­ting the lan­guage by look­ing at the right con­struc­tion, pro­por­tions and de­tails. I wanted to make sure that the col­lec­tion still felt Bri­tish and had pieces that you would just love to wear.

Esquire: There isn’t much in­for­ma­tion about you on­line. Could we ask what made you want to be­come a fash­ion de­signer? Mark We­ston: You won’t see, or find out much about me on­line be­cause that’s some­thing de­lib­er­ate on my part. As a rel­a­tively pri­vate per­son, I’ve al­ways felt that what I con­trib­uted as a de­signer to the brands that I’ve worked for was more im­por­tant than who I am.

Per­son­ally, I never thought I’d be a fash­ion de­signer, or to be more ac­cu­rate, a menswear de­signer. I’ve al­ways been in­ter­ested in style, but, for me, it was about sim­plic­ity and ease. It wasn’t about be­ing showy, as I didn’t feel I had to com­mu­ni­cate in an ob­vi­ous way.

I thought I was go­ing to en­ter the graphics in­dus­try, but that changed when I went to col­lege to do a foun­da­tion course, which fo­cused on a dif­fer­ent dis­ci­pline ev­ery week. I re­alised quite quickly that I didn’t like where the graphics in­dus­try was headed. I had a very in­spir­ing tu­tor for fash­ion tex­tiles who gave me a dif­fer­ent un­der­stand­ing of what fash­ion re­ally meant, and in­tro­duced me to de­sign­ers and their work. It was then that I re­alised I had an affin­ity for it, be­cause fash­ion can be so­phis­ti­cated and quiet too. An­other thing that I found re­ally ap­peal­ing was that I dis­cov­ered you can do very sim­ple things with menswear yet have a point of view and an in­ten­tion. So that’s what un­der­pins my think­ing and, in fact, my ca­reer. Esquire: Do you feel there’s a con­trast be­tween keep­ing up with trends ver­sus cre­at­ing beau­ti­ful, time­less pieces? Mark We­ston: There is a con­trast, and that’s why dun­hill is still rel­e­vant. There’s a great David Hicks quote: “Style is not what you do but how you do it.” It’s about hav­ing new­ness; we will be in­tro­duc­ing evo­lu­tions in each of the ar­eas that we of­fer. Whether it is ready-to-wear or ac­ces­sories, it’ll be about how we put ev­ery­thing to­gether to give our­selves a voice each sea­son— if you were to call it that.

The im­por­tant thing for me is mak­ing sure we have in­ter­est­ing propo­si­tions and a nar­ra­tive through­out the year; that when prod­ucts come into the store, they are suit­able for that time of the year. I think we need to be mind­ful of be­ing in the mo­ment where cus­tomers can buy some­thing straight­away, and not think: “It’s sum­mer. I want to buy a cool pair of san­dals or shorts, but can only find fall/win­ter clothes.” You need to strike a bal­ance that en­sures there’s ex­cite­ment and things that in­spire yet are also prac­ti­cal, easy and im­me­di­ate.

That’s why the SS’18 col­lec­tion will drop in batches. This is us try­ing to tar­get what our cus­tomers would want dur­ing a par­tic­u­lar time, and un­der­stand­ing the flow of the year, and not try­ing to think too much about sea­sons.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Singapore

© PressReader. All rights reserved.