Es­sen­tials of style

Esquire (Singapore) - - CONTENTS -

Fis for Fendi

Esquire Sin­ga­pore heads back­stage after Fendi’s au­tumn/win­ter 2018 show to speak to Sil­via Fendi, who waxes lyri­cally about her in­spi­ra­tion be­hind the col­lec­tion and her col­lab­o­ra­tion with guest artist, Hey Reilly.

E S Q: What was the in­spi­ra­tion be­hind cre­at­ing a bag­gage claim area as part of the run­way set? S I LV I A F E NDI : It’s about the idea of go­ing through new ex­pe­ri­ences when you’re in an air­port. It’s ex­cit­ing.

E S Q: Could we ask about the um­brella hats, how did you come up with that? S I LV I A F E NDI : (point­ing to the pic­ture of the first Fendi Store in Rome, on the mood board) This is the first store that my grand­par­ents opened in 1925, and here it says ‘um­brel­las’. The store used to sell lug­gage, hats and um­brel­las. For this col­lec­tion, I wanted to work on the Fendi iden­tity and codes. The start­ing point was the old­est im­age I had in the ar­chives and it’s this

pho­to­graph of the store. That’s why I thought of work­ing with an um­brella and started look­ing at im­ages of um­brel­las. That led to think­ing about all the um­brel­las I lost in my life, that would have been so beau­ti­ful to­day, so I wanted to work on an um­brella that you won’t lose. That’s why I cre­ated a small um­brella that you can hang on your bag, so you would not lose it, and that idea evolved into an um­brella hat. It’s tiny, fold­able and prac­ti­cal.

E S Q: What about the prints that ap­peared through­out the col­lec­tion? S I LV I A F E NDI : The prints came from the col­lab­o­ra­tion with the guest artist, Hey Reilly. I col­lab­o­rate with a dif­fer­ent guest artist for ev­ery col­lec­tion, and he de­cided to remix all the codes, like the Fendi yel­low, the lo­gos, the stamps and the stripes, even the ba­nana print from last year. He worked on all th­ese dif­fer­ent el­e­ments, adding word­ings that are very close to our Fendi vo­cab­u­lary. For ex­am­ple, ‘Fam­ily’, which is not only the Fendi fam­ily, but it’s the fam­ily that you be­long to, peo­ple who share your vi­sion of creativ­ity. For in­stance, he is now a part of the Fendi fam­ily. ‘Fab­u­lous’ is an­other word from our Fendi vo­cab­u­lary—travel can be fab­u­lous, or what you wear can be fab­u­lous. ‘Faith­ful’ and ‘Fancy’, which are two other words that are im­por­tant to Fendi. We also share this sense of hu­mour and irony, which is help­ful in life. That’s it ba­si­cally.

E S Q: There were a lot of bags, from fanny packs to small sling bags. Do you think men are ready for small bags? S I LV I A F E NDI: I think things are be­com­ing so com­pact th­ese days. It’s all thin­ner and smaller than be­fore. You don’t go around car­ry­ing huge com­put­ers any­more. Ev­ery­thing be­comes more com­pact, so the bags have to be prac­ti­cal to match the grow­ing com­pact­ness.

E S Q: We see a lot of sneak­ers in this col­lec­tion, is that the di­rec­tion that Fendi is tak­ing, footwear wise? S I LV I A F E NDI : Yes, but also there are loafers that we made in rub­ber. Be­cause I think that com­fort is an­other key­word, es­pe­cially when you travel, but also in ev­ery­day life. No­body would go back to the old kind of hard shoes. Also, the clas­sic loafer is half leather in back and rub­ber in the front, made in a sim­i­lar process as we do our sneak­ers.

E S Q: Could you walk us through the im­ages on your mood board? S I L I VA F E NDI : What you see is the vis­ual rep­re­sen­ta­tion of the Fendi vo­cab­u­lary. Tourists in Rome be­cause the DNA of Fendi is Rome. You can also see my mother and her sis­ters, my house where I live. It’s the ‘Fam­ily’. You will also see a trol­ley that we made in the ’80s. This is the cape that I re­ally love, which was made by Karl Lager­feld in the ’70s. It was the first un­lined fur at Fendi. From there I got the di­ag­o­nal stripes that you see in the col­lec­tion. This is a tech­nique that we use, where we cre­ate the can­vas pat­tern, align­ing the stripes be­fore adding the fur on it. This is the first im­age I saw from Hey Reilly, which made me fall in love with his work. I started to fol­low him on In­sta­gram and reached out to him to work together.

This is the air­port and the Fendi plane. I like th­ese im­ages very much, where you see the clean­ers in full body plas­tic suits who would clean the planes after each flight. That’s where I got the in­spi­ra­tion for the hoods and plas­tic pieces in the col­lec­tion.

E S Q: Is hu­mour a big part of your de­sign codes? S I LV I A F E NDI : Yes! It’s a big part of my life I would say.

Above and fac­ing page: out­er­wear and wear­able bags from the new col­lec­tion.

Sil­via Fendi.

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