THE EX­PER­I­MEN­TAL­ISTS

AN ITAL­IAN MENSWEAR LA­BEL THAT’S TURN­ING THE HUM­BLE WORK­MAN FAB­RIC INTO RIVIERA-WOR­THY PIECES. A POW­ER­HOUSE DUO WHO ARE MAK­ING ’90S DENIM DE­SIR­ABLE AGAIN. AND A FRENCH­WOMAN WHO’S (LIT­ER­ALLY) RIP­PING APART CON­VEN­TION. IS­ABEL ONG LOOKS AT THREE EMERG­ING LAB

Female (Singapore) - - CONTENTS - Where to buy On­line multi-la­bel store www.wear­e­s­e­lecters.com

Dressed up, dis­guised and shred­ded – meet the three emerg­ing brands with a unique ap­proach to denim.

SUN­NEI What The barely year-old menswear la­bel helmed by Ital­ian duo Loris Messina (near left, for­merly part of Gucci’s vis­ual mer­chan­dis­ing team) and Si­mone Rizzo, buyer and PR rep­re­sen­ta­tive of Mi­lanese mul­ti­l­abel men’s bou­tique Full Mi­lano.

USP

While the brand doesn’t work ex­clu­sively in denim, the ma­te­rial fea­tures heav­ily in its de­but Spring/Sum­mer 2015 col­lec­tion, el­e­vated into so­phis­ti­cated ca­sual sep­a­rates like tai­lored tees, ber­mu­das and suits. Ev­ery piece is hand­crafted in Italy; the fin­ish looks ex­pen­sive – the denim’s im­ported from Ja­pan and in­cludes spe­cial tex­tures like “denim waves”, a striped fab­ric made from twist­ing ny­lon and cot­ton threads to­gether; yet prices start from a wal­let-friendly 100 eu­ros (S$153) for a top.

MAR­QUES’ALMEIDA What

The four-year-old la­bel of Cen­tral Saint Martins-trained Por­tuguese de­sign­ers Marta Mar­ques and Paulo Almeida, who worked at Vivi­enne West­wood and Preen re­spec­tively.

USP

In­no­va­tive, fash­ion-for­ward denim dresses and sep­a­rates that have gained the brand a cult in­sider fol­low­ing (fash­ion con­sul­tant Yas­min Sewell and Rus­sian so­cialite Elena Per­mi­nova are all fans). While its pre­vi­ous col­lec­tions helped spear­head the re­turn of ’90s dis­tressed denim, its lat­est col­lec­tion has grown more pol­ished in style and crafts­man­ship. Black denim is wo­ven with metal­lic yarn to cre­ate a so­phis­ti­cated sheen and turned into cock­tail-wor­thy hal­ter­neck tops, minidresses, and tai­lored shorts and jeans. That’s not to say the la­bel’s lost its edge: Its sig­na­ture frayed edges re­main.

Where to buy

The near­est stock­ist is high­end multi-la­bel store I.T in Hong Kong (prices un­avail­able).

FAUS­TINE STEIN­METZ What

The Lon­don-based French designer’s two-year-old epony­mous la­bel. The Cen­tral Saint Martins alumni is one of eight names un­der the Bri­tish Fash­ion Coun­cil’s S/S ’15 New­gen pro­gramme, which sup­ports young, promis­ing Lon­don la­bels.

USP

Like an artist, Stein­metz de­con­structs, dyes and even weaves her own denim (she rein­ter­preted Levi’s 501s in indigo-dyed mo­hair for her de­but F/W ’ 13 col­lec­tion) to cre­ate never-be­fore-seen tex­tures. This Spring/ Sum­mer, she shred­ded then re-felted old denim into yarn, us­ing it to make jeans and jack­ets that look like they’re con­structed from crum­pled crepe, fuzzy wool and even gos­samerlight webs. Ev­ery­thing is painstak­ingly done by hand, which means a sin­gle piece can take weeks to com­plete, with prices rang­ing from £400 to £1,000 (S$820 to S$2,050).

Where to

buy The brand has plans to launch an on­line store on its web­site (www.faustinestein­metz.com), but for now, shop at www.open­ingcer­e­mony.us.

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