MOD­ERN TALK­ING

Most high-street-meets-high-fash­ion col­labs tap into the star de­signer’s ar­chives, but Er­dem’s H&M col­lec­tion re­flects what’s in now – all while stay­ing true to its ro­man­tic spirit. In an ex­clu­sive in­ter­view ahead of the Nov 2 launch, de­signer Er­dem Mo­ral

Female (Singapore) - - NEWS -

An ex­clu­sive in­ter­view with de­signer Er­dem Mo­rali­oglu on his up­com­ing Er­dem x H&M col­lec­tion.

IT OF­FERS A DEMO­CRATIC AP­PROACH TO DRESS­ING

“Usu­ally when I de­sign for a show, it’s about a se­quence of looks... For this 82-piece col­lec­tion for H&M, I de­signed each piece as an in­di­vid­ual gar­ment. It’s more about peo­ple mak­ing their own look and pair­ing pieces in an un­ex­pected way – like wear­ing the ball­gown skirt with a hoodie... I wanted that sense of play­ful­ness and free­dom.”

HE’S BRANCHED INTO MENSWEAR (YOU KNOW, ALA THE LIKES OF STELLA MCCART­NEY AND MICHAEL KORS)

“It’s my first time (do­ing so), and it was re­ally think­ing about what I’d wear, and have worn, at dif­fer­ent stages of my life. I thought about the nipped-in suits that my fa­ther wore in the ’60s, with a neat shoul­der and a clean leg. I wanted the tai­lor­ing to be beau­ti­ful with de­tails like cov­ered but­tons (and made) coats us­ing Har­ris Tweed... It also gave a new di­men­sion to the wom­enswear be­cause I thought about how they’d look when mixed with the menswear.”

IT KITS YOU OUT FOR THE GEN­DER FLUID MOVE­MENT

“I loved the idea of cre­at­ing a group of clothes for men that could be ab­sorbed by women too. It’s great to think of some­one tak­ing the fleece from the men’s col­lec­tion, and wear­ing it over the sin­u­ous se­quinned slip dress, or a man tak­ing the frilled col­lar shirt from the women’s line, and wear­ing it with tai­lored pieces. I wanted the col­lec­tion to be very much an open pro­posal.”

IT’S “ECON­OMY CON­SCIOUS”

“There’s no com­pro­mise on qual­ity (de­spite the prices, which range from $44.95 to $449 here). It was amaz­ing to in­tro­duce H&M to many of the small mills that I use to make my own col­lec­tions. I wanted this to be a col­lec­tion that you can wear for years.”

IT’S HIGHLY PER­SONAL AND NOS­TAL­GIC – ONE OF FALL/WIN­TER 2017’S KEY MOODS

“(The menswear) made me think about what I wore grow­ing up – things like an old Nor­we­gian sweater from high school, which led to the graphic take on the Fair Isle sweater. This made me think about what my twin sis­ter Sara wore, and how she would wear a fleece over vin­tage tea dresses – some­thing I’ve al­ways thought was so cool. Then I re­mem­bered my mother put­ting our fa­ther’s tweed blazer over her shoul­ders when she drove us to school, and the struc­tured hand­bags she car­ried in photos from the ’60s... (I also) re­turned to my own work and reap­pro­pri­ated them. The sun-ray plisse dress ref­er­ence is from my very first col­lec­tion, while the Vic­to­rian but­ton loops used as a trim de­tail are from a col­lec­tion I did three years ago.”

IT CEL­E­BRATES EARLY ’90S, KITSCHY POP CUL­TURE

“Grow­ing up as a teenager in Canada, I loved Twin Peaks, and two of the mo­hair sweaters in the women’s col­lec­tion are very much in­spired by (the ones worn in the show). I (was also in­flu­enced by) the nar­ra­tive of Pet Shop Boys’ Be­ing Bor­ing video that was shot by Bruce We­ber – all th­ese young peo­ple in­vad­ing a coun­try house man­sion and dress­ing up. The idea of play­ing with a wardrobe – that con­trast of girls in ball­go­wns and train­ers – felt in­ter­est­ing and rel­e­vant.”

EX­PECT A FRESH TAKE ON HIS SIG­NA­TURE FLO­RALS

“I’m fas­ci­nated by things that im­ply fem­i­nin­ity, whether it’s lace or flow­ers or a cer­tain sil­hou­ette. Flow­ers are some­thing I al­ways re­turn to, and al­ways seem fresh to me. Here, I’ve used many dif­fer­ent flo­ral prints, play­ing with ideas of scale and for­mal­ity... It was also fas­ci­nat­ing to see how flow­ers worked on men’s cloth­ing.”

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