Birds Of A Feather

Food and Travel (Singapore) - - New Bites -

For a mi­nor­ity of peo­ple, Sichuan cui­sine is well loved for its heat, most of the time thanks to tongue-numb­ing Sichuan pep­pers. But the reg­u­lar non-sadist will be glad to know that chef Eu­gene See has man­aged to coax the pep­per’s fiery prop­er­ties to less in­tim­i­dat­ing lev­els in his East-meets-west menu at Birds of a Feather.

The swanky new es­tab­lish­ment along Amoy Street is opened by a cou­ple from Chengdu, who’ve hid­den hints of the city amongst the res­tau­rant’s warm tones of grey, wood and brass. A hang­ing light fix­ture near the front, for ex­am­ple, is made from treated dried leaves from the cap­i­tal while wood fur­nish­ings on the bar counter or ta­bles come from north­ern China. Once you’ve set­tled into the mis­matched fur­ni­ture, get straight to or­der­ing ap­pe­tis­ers such as the Crispy Pork Trot­ter in a Bag (S$19) – a fun pa­per pouch of deep-fried chewy pork trot­ters shaken with an ad­dic­tive sea­son­ing of soy bean pow­der made of soy beans, Sichuan pep­per, salt and chilli pow­der. Equally pi­quant is the Or­ganic Mapo Tofu Burger (S$22), which pork ragout with tofu and par­ma­giano patty we couldn’t get enough of. Dishes with a cleaner flavour pro­file such as the Hot and Sour Chazuke (S$28) high­lights See’s ap­ti­tude in prac­tic­ing the right amount of res­traint in deal­ing with the po­tency of Sichuan in­gre­di­ents. The lat­ter is a spin on com­fort­ing Ja­panese tea rice, sub­sti­tut­ing tea for an aro­matic spicy broth with pick­led mus­tard, grilled bar­ra­mundi and men­taiko.

115 Amoy Street, Sin­ga­pore 069935. Tel: 6221-7449. Visit them at www.face­book.com/bird­so­fafeath­ersg

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