Retro Jump Start

MVMT - - Momentum -

Like the tour­bil­lon, com­pli­ca­tions such as jump­ing hours and ret­ro­grade hands aren’t ex­actly the most use­ful func­tions. In fact, un­der the ac­tual defini­tion of a com­pli­ca­tion, they don’t count since they fall un­der telling time. How­ever, like the tour­bil­lon as well, these her­itage com­pli­ca­tions pay trib­ute to an era of watch­mak­ing that pushed bound­aries and ac­tu­ally in­no­vated. The jump­ing hour was first de­vel­oped in 1882 by Josef Pall­we­ber, who fash­ioned a dig­i­tal dis­play for pocket watches that used num­bers on ro­tat­ing disks in ad­di­tion to clas­sic point­ers, sim­i­lar to how most of our date discs look now. The ret­ro­grade dis­play, on the other hand, was used by mas­ter watch­maker him­self Abra­ham-louis Breguet to show­case func­tions like the date or the equa­tion of time. While nor­mal hands travel a com­plete 360°,ret­ro­grade dis­plays sweep only a seg­ment of that cir­cle be­fore jump­ing back to the start and go­ing through the sweep again. To us, the two ways of show­ing time might not be ground-break­ing but one thing is sure – it’s ab­so­lute poetry in mo­tion watch­ing your sec­onds hand jump every so of­ten.

Haut­lence vor­tex pri­mary

It may look like an artsy watch with the 19 stained glass pan­els cov­er­ing it from every an­gle but we all know Haut­lence isn’t about that. The brand’s tech­ni­cal mastery sur­faces in the im­pres­sive HL R 2.0 cal­i­bre with iconic tank-thread hours on the left and a ret­ro­grade minute scale up­front and cen­tre.

Louis moinet 20-sec­ond tem­po­graph

The ap­peal of Louis Moinet watches lies in the con­trast­ing aes­thetic. While the dial at four o’clock is rem­i­nis­cent of vin­tage marine chronome­ters, the rest of the watch is con­tem­porar­ily made and fin­ished. The best part is the ret­ro­grade sec­onds hand at two o’clock, jump­ing back every third of a minute.

Chanel mon­sieur de chanel

Chanel’s first ded­i­cated men’s watch knocked it out of the park this year and it’s safe to as­sume we weren’t the only ones sur­prised. Com­pletely made in-house with help from Ro­main Gau­thier, it has a jump­ing hour dis­play, a patented ret­ro­grade minute dis­play (for the wide an­gle) and a three-day power re­serve.

Chronoswiss sir­ius fly­ing reg­u­la­tor jump­ing hour

We’ve al­ways been fans of Chronoswiss’ reg­u­la­tors but this year’s ver­sion with the jump­ing hour dis­play and raised sub-di­als ranks up there among the brand’s best. Ex­e­cuted in con­tem­po­rary colours and with great fin­ish­ing, the col­lec­tion of six also sees red gold ver­sions and ones in black DLC steel.

Ulysse nardin marine tour­bil­lon grand deck

There aren’t many fea­tures in a time­piece that can eclipse a tour­bil­lon but Ulysse Nardin’s nov­elty this year sees to that. The stars of the show are the se­ries of nanowires pulling the blued-alu­minium ret­ro­grade hand along its axis, in­spired by a ship’s boom. The move­ment is ab­so­lutely mes­meris­ing.

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