Choosing the Right Vent
There are many opinions when it comes to vents on jackets. Even the origins of vents have been explained differently. It seems most plausible that the slit in the tail of a jacket had its start in riding. The double-vented suit has its claims in English heritage, either on each side of the suit, while the single vent is generally associated with Italian or French tailoring. Vents offer comfort and practicality. It is generally easier to make alterations on a vented suit than an unvented one. Single vents are designed for a slimmer body shape, while double vents tend to be for regular builds. Dinner jackets, as a code of dress, should bear no vent.
CHOSE YOUR MATERIALS
Whether you prefer animal or vegetable fibres in your suit, one thing is for sure: never go with synthetics. They may offer easy-care advantages, but polyester and other synthetic options do not let the body breathe well, making the suit uncomfortable.
Worsted wool is the most prevalent suiting fabric, and comes in various levels of fineness. In the Super grades, the higher the number, the lighter the twist, and the finer the fabric. The cost also ascends exponentially. These finer grades of wool are also more fragile, and thus require more care when cleaning and maintaining.
Tailors and brands are increasingly opting for blended fabrics that combine two or more types of yarn in the weave. These blends offer some of the qualities of each material type. For example, a wool and silk blend has the sturdiness of the former with the smoothness of the latter, giving the suit an attractive sheen. Cashmere and silk provides the comfort and warmth of the first, with the beauty of the second, and linen and wool combinations can deliver the relaxed appeal of the former, while remaining easy to maintain.
KNOW YOUR CLIMATE S
Not all materials work for every climate. Cashmere is perfect for cooler weather, and a cashmere suit in winter will leave you feeling warm at all times, but come summer, itʼs stifling. Wool works in both the cold and warm, but higher grade worsted wool will not keep you very sheltered from the wind in winter. Tweed, another choice material for the cold and wet, would not suit the tropics. You should also note that heavier materials have a different drape and fall on the body.
LINE IT UP
In the same way that a lady frequently personalises her phone with some detail known only to her, the suit lining is the menʼs equivalent of dolling up in fun. Add some colour and creativity to your suit lining. After all, you will be the primary person to be seeing and using it, so why hold back? Do try to stick with one palette and not go all-out psychedelic.
GO FOR BROKEN
If youʼre a suit conservative, the standard single tone may work, but it is fun to break away occasionally Explore patterns such as glen plaid, and mix your blazers and pants from different suits to add flavour.