Choos­ing the Right Vent

Rules For The Modern Man - - Rules For The Modern Man -

There are many opin­ions when it comes to vents on jack­ets. Even the ori­gins of vents have been ex­plained dif­fer­ently. It seems most plau­si­ble that the slit in the tail of a jacket had its start in rid­ing. The dou­ble-vented suit has its claims in English her­itage, ei­ther on each side of the suit, while the single vent is gen­er­ally as­so­ci­ated with Ital­ian or French tai­lor­ing. Vents of­fer com­fort and prac­ti­cal­ity. It is gen­er­ally eas­ier to make al­ter­ations on a vented suit than an un­vented one. Single vents are de­signed for a slim­mer body shape, while dou­ble vents tend to be for reg­u­lar builds. Din­ner jack­ets, as a code of dress, should bear no vent.

CHOSE YOUR MA­TE­RI­ALS

Whether you pre­fer an­i­mal or veg­etable fi­bres in your suit, one thing is for sure: never go with syn­thet­ics. They may of­fer easy-care ad­van­tages, but polyester and other syn­thetic op­tions do not let the body breathe well, mak­ing the suit un­com­fort­able.

Worsted wool is the most preva­lent suit­ing fab­ric, and comes in var­i­ous lev­els of fine­ness. In the Su­per grades, the higher the num­ber, the lighter the twist, and the finer the fab­ric. The cost also as­cends ex­po­nen­tially. These finer grades of wool are also more frag­ile, and thus re­quire more care when clean­ing and main­tain­ing.

IN­TER­EST­ING BLENDS

Tai­lors and brands are in­creas­ingly opt­ing for blended fab­rics that com­bine two or more types of yarn in the weave. These blends of­fer some of the qual­i­ties of each ma­te­rial type. For ex­am­ple, a wool and silk blend has the stur­di­ness of the former with the smooth­ness of the lat­ter, giv­ing the suit an at­trac­tive sheen. Cash­mere and silk pro­vides the com­fort and warmth of the first, with the beauty of the sec­ond, and linen and wool com­bi­na­tions can de­liver the re­laxed ap­peal of the former, while re­main­ing easy to main­tain.

KNOW YOUR CLI­MATE S

Not all ma­te­ri­als work for every cli­mate. Cash­mere is per­fect for cooler weather, and a cash­mere suit in winter will leave you feel­ing warm at all times, but come sum­mer, itʼs sti­fling. Wool works in both the cold and warm, but higher grade worsted wool will not keep you very shel­tered from the wind in winter. Tweed, an­other choice ma­te­rial for the cold and wet, would not suit the trop­ics. You should also note that heav­ier ma­te­ri­als have a dif­fer­ent drape and fall on the body.

LINE IT UP

In the same way that a lady fre­quently per­son­alises her phone with some de­tail known only to her, the suit lin­ing is the menʼs equiv­a­lent of dolling up in fun. Add some colour and cre­ativ­ity to your suit lin­ing. Af­ter all, you will be the pri­mary per­son to be see­ing and us­ing it, so why hold back? Do try to stick with one pal­ette and not go all-out psy­che­delic.

GO FOR BRO­KEN

If youʼre a suit con­ser­va­tive, the stan­dard single tone may work, but it is fun to break away oc­ca­sion­ally Ex­plore pat­terns such as glen plaid, and mix your blaz­ers and pants from dif­fer­ent suits to add flavour.

TWO-VENT SUIT

UN­VENTED SUIT

SINGLE-VENT SUIT

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